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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hope this hasn't been address. My apologies, otherwise.

Obviously, I have an idea of what MAX and MIN could mean, but if that idea was correct, MAX should not go up (other than by charging externally, I guess) and MIN should no go down (other than by driving). Please, keep in mind I live in the ultraflat Netherlands, so I tend to ignore the effect of driving up and downhill :D.

Yesterday, while driving my MAX indicator went from 310 to 330 km within approx. 10 km / 10 minutes, with no 'apparent' cause. Sure, I may have been driving a tad slower, but if 330 was the MAX after taht 10 minute window, then clearly, 310 was not the MAX before that 10 minute window. Because I managed to stretch it. It looks like the MAX and MIN values assume some driving parameters are fixed. Do we know what these parameters are?

In other words, what do you need to change in order to get the MAX and MIN values to go up or down, other than recharging and driving?
 

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They're an estimate, based on recent usage, of how far you might go. MAX is (obviously) the estimate using the best distance/KWH figure from recent history; MIN is the estimate based on the highest recent consumption. No, I don't know how far back "recent" reaches.

All 3 values are only estimates; thus some people calling it the GOM ("Guess-o-Meter").

After my last full charge, my MAX was 328 miles. After driving half a mile, it was up to 342. It stayed 342 for the next 15 miles. So I must have been *gaining* charge as I drove, right? Not.

As for "doing" anything, the best thing you can do is not pay a lot of attention to the numbers. If you hit yellow (15%), they become interesting. Until then, not so much.
 

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In other words, what do you need to change in order to get the MAX and MIN values to go up or down, other than recharging and driving?
The longer you drive under new conditions that are more or less efficient than the previous conditions, and the greater the change in efficiency, the more the MAX and MIN values will change.

I view those MAX and MIN values, along with the lines (green going up, orange going down) at the left side of the battery meter that extend from the "expected" range toward them, as an indication of the current "trend". So if the "expected" range is 300km and the "MAX" range is 400km and if there's a green bar going halfway up from normal to max, then I read it as that the car's best guess (based on the most recent driving conditions) is a range of 350km.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
They're an estimate, based on recent usage, of how far you might go. MAX is (obviously) the estimate using the best distance/KWH figure from recent history; MIN is the estimate based on the highest recent consumption. No, I don't know how far back "recent" reaches.
So, what you are saying is:

Max is remaining charge times best economy over last 30 km (or so)
Min is remaining charge times worst economy over last 30 km
Range is remaining charge times average consumption of last 30 km

If I had a brief moment of very good economy (for example a short downhill stretch), that could result in a very high MAX for 30 km and all of a sudden that could go away.
Likewise, if I had a brief moment of very poor economy (for example due to quickly overtaking somebody), that could result in a very low MIN for 30 km.

Kinda make sense. But then indeed, MAX is not really the maximum range and MIN is not really the minimum range.
 

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So, what you are saying is:
....
If I had a brief moment of very good economy (for example a short downhill stretch), that could result in a very high MAX for 30 km and all of a sudden that could go away.
Likewise, if I had a brief moment of very poor economy (for example due to quickly overtaking somebody), that could result in a very low MIN for 30 km.

Kinda make sense. But then indeed, MAX is not really the maximum range and MIN is not really the minimum range.
Right; they're both estimates of what you *might* get depending on how closely your future driving matches the best-efficiency or worst-efficiency values from your more-or-less-recent history.

As an extreme example, if you do only in-town low-speed driving in L for a few days, and then get on the highway at highway speeds, every 10KM you drive will cause your MAX to drop *more*--maybe quite a bit more--than 10KM. At high speeds, say 120KPH+, MAX would drop over twice as fast as actual distance until the estimate started catching up to what the car was actually doing.

So, as the former Jag driver suggests, the best approach is to pay them little attention. The SOC bars are truth (at least as close as we're going to get); the ranges are fiction.
 
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