Yes it will

 

Thank you Jake. I wasn’t sure because the 6-50 doesn’t have a neutral wire.. and I know nothing about electricity other then it’s way cheaper then gas. 🤣

 

Yes. But long term it would be a good idea to swap out for an industrial 14-50 receptacle. That eliminates the extra contacts when using an adapter.

 

That assumes that there is a neutral wire available.

I would never install a 14-50 without a neutral. It would be a hazard if an RV plugged in.

 

The least expensive choice would be buy a charger with a 6-50 plug. That's the way the one my utility supplied came and it's all which is needed or required.

jack vines

 

Here's a HandyDAD video that helps explain the plugs.
He also has a couple of videos showing how to run a circuit from the panel to a new receptacle.
A safety note from someone who has worked in industrial environments for many years ...
It's a good habit to always turn the circuit breaker off before pulling or inserting any large amperage plugs.
This safety tip includes RV plugs.

 

Here's a HandyDAD video that helps explain the plugs.
He also has a couple of videos showing how to run a circuit from the panel to a new receptacle.
A safety note from someone who has worked in industrial environments for many years ...
It's a good habit to always turn the circuit breaker off before pulling or inserting any large amperage plugs.
This safety tip includes RV plugs.

So in all reality I gather the “Charger” won’t know the difference if I’m using an adaptor plug. It’s just more contact points that must connect solidly.

 

I received the charger today.. man, it’s way heavier than I had expected. Quite a substantial piece of equipment.

 

That 14-50 plug looks like it screws together, which means it could be unscrewed and replaced by a 6-50 easily.
Cheaper than an adapter and less contacts in line to boot.
A little easier to do than swapping the 6-50 socket out for a 14-50, plus you'd need to have a common wire to make it a "correct" 14-50 outlet. Do let us know if there is a common wire coming from the EVSE, hardly seems worth it as it's not needed.

 

That 14-50 plug looks like it screws together, which means it could be unscrewed and replaced by a 6-50 easily.
Cheaper than an adapter and less contacts in line to boot.

Especially since el cheapo EVSEs like that one often lack temperature sensors in the plug.

One of many reasons you really shouldn't buy EVSEs like that...

 

Well so much for charging at 32 amps.. it blew the breakers.. so now I know which breakers are which.. even though it’s a 50 amp plug, the box has two 20 amp breakers.. so I turned it down to 16 amps.. the plug is within 3 feet of the box.. so I’ll have to look into rewiring if necessary and changing out the breakers. And keep an eyeball on the temp. 🙄

 

I’m getting ready to buy a plug in charger.
it comes with the 14-50 plug. My garage has the 6-50 receptacle.
I can buy an adapter plug for this.
Will the charger work?
View attachment 54724

I’m getting ready to buy a plug in charger.
it comes with the 14-50 plug. My garage has the 6-50 receptacle.
I can buy an adapter plug for this.
Will the charger work?
View attachment 54724

Why spend $230 on a charger when the Bolt comes with a Level 2 32 amp wall charger? It has an adaptor to charge at 110 volts from a regular wall receptacle or the 14/50 220 volts receptacle. Its supplied by Chevy and is located in the lower trunk compartment where a spare wheel would normally be found.

 

Personal choice would be one good reason.

 

Re the lack of a neutral for an RV.

I've seen substantial appliance damage in two different houses where the neutral wire came off between the pole and the meter. Between the two, they lost a TV, a microwave, and a furnace blower motor that I know of. Lights got bright or dim, the garage door opened super fast, etc. All sorts of stuff. Our mantra in the electric shop in the factory where I worked was, "When weird things happen, check the neutral."

 

Exactly. Have had a few fire investigations where the cause was related to open neutrals. And an occasional problem in marinas where you combine harsh marine conditions and some iffy maintenance. I would think some shady RV parks could have problems too.

 

I'm not so sure that grounding really helps. Unless there is a short circuit there should be no current in the ground wire. It should only be connected to neutral at the breaker panel. And if it's not bonded there, you'll have a floating neutral in which everything works, but, for example, the refrigerator can cause intense pain if you touch it in bare feet on a concrete floor. I discovered that the hard way helping friends move into a house that wasn't bonded. I was in a sweat soaked t-shirt and laid down on the tile to remove the bottom hinge bolt on the refrigerator door in order to reverse the door. I screamed like a little girl on a roller coaster! The hot leg was at 50v from ground and the neutral was 70v from ground.

The reason that the ground has no effect, besides not being a current carrier, is that American houses use a split phase system. There is a transformer that drops the voltage from utility levels to 240/120. The xformer has a center tap. From the center to one leg is 120v and from the center to the other leg is 120v that's 180º out of phase with the other leg making the two legs 240v. But all in one transformer.

If you remove the neutral from that center tap, the return from your appliance goes back to the panel on the neutral and, seeing the path of least resistance (neutral to the xformer) isn't available, takes the next lowest path through the other side of the panel, and either right back to the other side of the xformer or through other appliances on that side and back. (Or some combination of both.) That's why some lights get dim and others burn out, the garage door opener goes fast, the microwave gets weak, the TV dies and so on. It just depends on whether the power takes the long or the short route back to the opposite side of the xformer.

 

Thank you Jerry. In my panel at home, both neutral wires and ground wires share the same bus bars. Correct me if I am wrong, but the neutral at the transformer goes to ground. That is more of a question than a statement.

The hot leg was at 50v from the ground and the neutral was 70v from ground.

I had a similar situation on a machine once. 480 into the panel and a transformer to step down to 120 for control voltage. I wanted to add a counter to the machine and I couldn't get it to work. I don't remember the exact voltages but it was similar to what you are describing. I spent hours trying to track it down but finally gave up.

 

If the ground is tied to the neutral at the service and the resistance of that ground to earth is zero the neutral would stay locked at zero.

However, grounding to earth is not zero resistance. Per a Fluke testing brochure: “Ideally a ground should be of zero ohms resistance. There is not one standard ground resistance threshold that is recognized by all agencies. However, the NFPA and IEEE have recommended a ground resistance value of 5.0 ohms or less. The NEC has stated to “Make sure that system impedance to ground is less than 25 ohms specified in NEC 250.56.”

If for calculations sake, say we have a 5 Ohm ground. Also assume we have an intact, 5 Ohm ground at the transformer. That’s 10 Ohms not counting the earth resistance between the grounds. If we have 5 Amps of load on one leg and 10 Amps on the other, the difference, 5 Amps returns to the transformer though the neutral. Lose the neutral and it has to pass through the grounds. That raises the neutral voltage (5 Amps x 10 Ohms) to 50 V. One leg sees 70 V and the other 170 V. Thus, the nastiness.

As the ground path resistance goes up so does the voltage fluctuations. Worst case is the RV example with no neutral or ground path at all.

https://rexel-cdn.com/products/fluke-bro-4346628a-en-earthground-brochure-w-brochure.pdf?i=8717FD5C-29D3-427C-B3A1-5922DAB6AEEC

 

Ok folks I defiantly see the need for a 14-50 plug with a neutral line. In the mean time I don’t yet have one in my garage. Will this 6-50r with the 14-50 adapter damage the “Charger” or my car? Thank you in advance.

 

Will this 6-50r with the 14-50 adapter damage the “Charger” or my car?

It shouldn't. Wouldn't hurt to have someone inspect the installation to make sure everything is legit with the outlet. We've seen some funky stuff posted in this forum.