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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some kind folks posted here did a hard wire install of a front dash cam but I'm not that brave, here's my wire route method. I was surprised at how clean and easy it turned out and took all of five minutes. The supplied cable with the SpyTec A119 V2 are the perfect length and width. It's a friction fit, except along the side windshield I use a little bit of removable sticky to help keep it in place. The only part that matters is along the windshield, because that's in your field of view you want a clean fit. Otherwise it's a clean and perfect fit really.

Numbers correspond to pictures. Edit: guide to the non sensical way the forum orders pictures, go backwards. Top row is rear cam, last picture is 1, first is 5. Bottom is front, last is 1, first is 5.

Front
  1. The sticky goes best on the windshield instead of the plastic, anyhow just route the cable into the headliner
  2. I don't have a picture but it routes along the edge of the windshield, then along the left side of the dash, then to the door jamb you see here
  3. Goes along here (electrical tape is coming off, just to get it started). The supplied cable fits perfectly with a small friction fit
  4. Don't want it interfering with the feet, route it through the foot air vent
  5. Out the air vent to the USB cigarette lighter
Rear
  1. I use the camera rear view so don't care about the optical obstruction, you could put it on the hard cargo cover (if you got that) instead
  2. route over to the driver side edge of rear seat
  3. Just snugs in the crack
  4. Out then route under the mat
  5. If you don't have rear USB or don't want to use it, you'll need a extension to the front accessory (I'll probably do this anyhow)
 

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You can run the wire from the bottom of the dash to the top of the windshield by slipping it under the loose edge of the door gasket (drivers door). You can then slip it under the top edge of the plastic pillar cover (you can gently pull the top edge away from the pillar and slip the wire in with a gentle push from a screw driver. The wire can then be tucked under the front edge of the roof liner and dropped down by the rear view mirror. I routed the wire in at the bottom of the dash same as you, through the vent, and around the left edge of front console.

I would think you could come from the top for your rear camera in a similar way. The rear plastic panels (on the hatch) can be removed and the wire routed behind them. This would prevent you from having a dangling cable in your rear window.

I didn't have the guts to hard wire my front camera either, but unless you look closely, you won't notice that the wire comes all the way down to the center console. That door gasket is an easy way to route from high to low.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Great tips, yes that is much better on the front. The rear still works better as it is (again for me, if you use the optical rear view it might be different). For the rear I'm running it along the side airbag crack. Attached are pictures, perfect.

Edit: I should add, all my other routing is the same, so the cleaner approach here is to run along head liners to the door seal (picture "AlongTop") and then down the seal to the bottom ("RunAlongPost"), then the rest is the same through the foot ventilation. Really clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
but now your rear usb ports are useless.
? I'm only using one rear USB, and as I said I'll be adding an extension and running it to the front accessory port anyhow. It will hide under the driver sear perfectly. The fuse is a fine idea but harder to route for the back one anyhow I think, but would work well for the front. I like plugging into USB as it's super easy to shut off (like if I'm sitting in the car for a long time).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Found a better route, go along the passenger side for the front camera. It puts it entirely out of the driver view (don't even see it go along the seam from the headliner to the door weather seal), and the routing is somewhat better over there anyhow.
 

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I highly 2nd mraymondus' suggestion of running the cable behind the loose lip of the door gaskets and inbetween the trim panels along the roof. I'll try to get cleaner pics of my install tomorrow but very clean looking without the need for tape either.
 
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ProfessorBolta, please find attached a wire run from the cubby hole to my front camera and my rear:

1. Cubby hole, note the wire heading left. There's a crevice you can stuff 2 wires into followed by some folded-up foam or paper to keep the wires in the crevice. No adhesive necessary. I forgot to take pictures of the crevice.

2. Note the wire coming from the drivers door's front edge. The door is closed and the camera wire emerges from the weatherstripping unharmed. No adhesive necessary. I forgot to take pictures of the weatherstrip with the door open.

3. Power and rear cam's wires stuffed into overhead liner along windshield (it's a dual-channel mirror dash cam). I ran the power along the passenger side and the wire for the rear camera along the driver's side. Both wires are stuffed into the overhead liner. Following is the run to the rear camera.

4. rear cam's wire stuffed into the seam on driver's side A-pillar and pushed in with a BIC pen cap cause it's plastic and small. Can't see the wire at all and maybe see a gap in the seam. Wire is ran inside weather stripping along front edge of driver's door as before. So now TWO wires are inside the front edge weatherstripping and the driver's door closes just fine and both cameras operate just fine. No kinked or nicked cables.

5. B-pillar, looking to back of Bolt from driver's seat. Again, rear cam's wire is ran stuff inside weatherstripping. This time, it's the top edge of the driver's door. Also stuffed the wire into the seam between roof liner and B-pillar plastic trim.

6. B-pillar, looking forward from the rear seat behind driver. A small gap but I wasn't very careful and it looks good enough for me.

7. C-pillar, looking to rear of Bolt from rear seat behind driver. Again, a small gap but looks good enough to me.

8. Open hatch looking forward over the headrest of the rear passenger behind driver. Weatherstripping pealed back to show the rear cam's wire behind the trim panel. No gap at this seam between trim and roof liner. The rear cam's cable had so much extra length that rather than tie it up in a bundle, I ran it around the bottom and right edges of the hatch's weatherstripping. Luckily, it ran out just in time to connect...

9. Rear camera mounted center behind the rear brake hatch center brake light. I had to use adhesive here but it's 3M outdoor command strips for hanging xmas lights. I had used indoor "clear" ones on my old Volt and they held for the entire year I owned it on my rear window before the UV rays cooked them. A year for me is plenty and camera just dangles against the rear window. I may need to tape up the metal braket on the rear camera to avoid scratching the window should it actually dangle a year from now.
 

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I just spent 5 hour hookink up a Thinkware F800 Pro front an rear and wow what a *****! The biggest thing I can say is the hard panels are hard to take off. The overhead panel was so hard to remove one of the clips failed to come out and broke! That being said, you cannot see any wires anywhere other that just by the cameras. Will try to take pictures.

Both battery and accesory power are available from the overhead console and mirror. This allows parking mode.

I chose to run the rear camera through the drivers side headliner, be away you need to get the wire tucked behind the window curtain airbags by reaching in between the airbags and the headliner. You will feel some plastic nubbies beyound the bag and if you manipulate the cable you can place it over them to keep the cable secure.

The rear hatch pices were another ***** to take apart and you will destroy the cover pins trying to remove them. But those two pieces need to come out to get the side plastics off before you try to get the top plastic off. I ran the camera wire through the rubber electrical boots between the body and hatch. That one was fun too!

The headliner is flimsy and at times it will buckle as its pretty hard to remove but be gentle and it will look fine after, I stress you have to be gentle and not rip at it as you could damage the liner.
 

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nice pics. I need to take pictures of mine to show how small and well hidden the Mobius dash cam rig is.


ProfessorBolta, please find attached a wire run from the cubby hole to my front camera and my rear:

1. Cubby hole, note the wire heading left. There's a crevice you can stuff 2 wires into followed by some folded-up foam or paper to keep the wires in the crevice. No adhesive necessary. I forgot to take pictures of the crevice.

2. Note the wire coming from the drivers door's front edge. The door is closed and the camera wire emerges from the weatherstripping unharmed. No adhesive necessary. I forgot to take pictures of the weatherstrip with the door open.

3. Power and rear cam's wires stuffed into overhead liner along windshield (it's a dual-channel mirror dash cam). I ran the power along the passenger side and the wire for the rear camera along the driver's side. Both wires are stuffed into the overhead liner. Following is the run to the rear camera.

4. rear cam's wire stuffed into the seam on driver's side A-pillar and pushed in with a BIC pen cap cause it's plastic and small. Can't see the wire at all and maybe see a gap in the seam. Wire is ran inside weather stripping along front edge of driver's door as before. So now TWO wires are inside the front edge weatherstripping and the driver's door closes just fine and both cameras operate just fine. No kinked or nicked cables.

5. B-pillar, looking to back of Bolt from driver's seat. Again, rear cam's wire is ran stuff inside weatherstripping. This time, it's the top edge of the driver's door. Also stuffed the wire into the seam between roof liner and B-pillar plastic trim.

6. B-pillar, looking forward from the rear seat behind driver. A small gap but I wasn't very careful and it looks good enough for me.

7. C-pillar, looking to rear of Bolt from rear seat behind driver. Again, a small gap but looks good enough to me.

8. Open hatch looking forward over the headrest of the rear passenger behind driver. Weatherstripping pealed back to show the rear cam's wire behind the trim panel. No gap at this seam between trim and roof liner. The rear cam's cable had so much extra length that rather than tie it up in a bundle, I ran it around the bottom and right edges of the hatch's weatherstripping. Luckily, it ran out just in time to connect...

9. Rear camera mounted center behind the rear brake hatch center brake light. I had to use adhesive here but it's 3M outdoor command strips for hanging xmas lights. I had used indoor "clear" ones on my old Volt and they held for the entire year I owned it on my rear window before the UV rays cooked them. A year for me is plenty and camera just dangles against the rear window. I may need to tape up the metal braket on the rear camera to avoid scratching the window should it actually dangle a year from now.
 

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I am trying to install a dash cam today as well. I started from the top center and ran the wire towards the passenger side. That part went well. I'm just trying to figure out how to run it from the side of the pillar into the CLA. Camera being used is a Anker dash cam. I haven't been able to find many videos/pics on this so I will make sure to document this when I am done.
 

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What does "CLA" mean?

If you're looking for a minimal effort/mod run, you can just run the cable along the edges between trim pieces. Below are pics from my Gen 2 Volt install but I did the same thing for my Bolt install. Plus side, I could remove all the wiring very quickly without any damage to the Volt when I traded it in for the Bolt. Note that the first pic along the A pillar I did do a better job of on the Bolt since I had trim tools to push the wire into the seam better.

It's not hidden, but it's not sprawling cables all over either.
 

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I went to North County GMC to help a two people get theirs.
First one was $1284 drive off fee and $129 per month plus tax
Second was $1284 drive off fee and $139 per month plus tax

Both were the SLE models. PM me if you want the sales person I dealt with. Both deals were within 24 hours of each other and for some reason he would only give up the white ones for this price. Residual value was $18,xxx. I forgot the MSRP.
 

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When I did my dual camera install running the wires wasn't that difficult.


Popped off or moved aside the plastic trim pieces at the top of the hatch and where the hatch opening meets the roof liner.
Popped off the trim piece at the top of the drivers door.

I used a ~8' length of solid core house wiring to fish between the roof liner and the roof. Once that "poked through" by the drivers door I taped the end of my rear camera cable to the end of the wire and used that to pull it through so I could route to to the center.

Hardest part was fishing the rear camera wire through the rubber boots to the hatch, had to disconnect the boots from the hatch and the car and getting them back on was a PITA.
 

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When I did my dual camera install running the wires wasn't that difficult.
do you have a picture of your mounted rear camera? i want to put one in, but there's not a good place to mount one back there. i'd like to keep it mounted on the roof, not the hatch itself. too much slamming/movement.
 

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do you have a picture of your mounted rear camera? i want to put one in, but there's not a good place to mount one back there. i'd like to keep it mounted on the roof, not the hatch itself. too much slamming/movement.
I mounted my rear cam on the hatch trim with 3M command adhesive (3 strips, 1" long strips) and it has held in place through winter until now for 6 months. So far so good. Even mounted a second, higher-res camera to the rear camera (lores) and it's still holding. I'm sure it'll fail at some point but the shock forces exerted on the trim near the hatch hinge (???) is not that much. The vibration from driving over expansion joints and bad roads will probably be more stressing on the adhesive than closing the hatch. That hours of vibration versus closing the hatch maybe twice a day if that.
 

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What camera are you guys using? I only have 1 for the front, the ROVE R2-4K, thinking of adding another for the rear.
Thanks,
4k sounds nice, but that thing is huge. i'm using the mobius in front, and i have a second for the rear. i also have a blackvue from my old car that i may put in the back - it's bigger than the mobius so i didn't put it in the front. the camera/mirror cluster already blocks enough of my field of view.
 
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