[finch4ever]

The other day I've drove about 20km before the GOM began to drop that middle number. The drive before, I was in a hurry and drove faster then usual. That number is just a number. The only number I care about is the Min number and only when I think I might be flush but other then that I watch for the green bars and the trend line

 

[finch4ever]

I agree the confusion comes from people switching from ICE to EV but keeping their ICE mentality. The abundance of gas stations and the short time it takes to fuel back up is what makes people NOT second guess the GOM and the accuracy on ICE cars. But now because of the nature of EV and the infrastructure around it (less abundance then gas), people are now questioning why is this GOM do not reflet the reality? Or why it's real time accuracy is not very accurate? But the thing is the ICE GOM isn't different. ICE car will also not always do the same mileage depending on the road conditions and driving habits.

Maybe when gas price will get super high, the average person will start calculating more and ajust their driving accordingly just like we do as EV drivers

 

[finch4ever]

I want an instrument cluster that doesn't result in frequent posts like OP's. This is not asking for too much... people are going to be renting Bolts in Hertz eventually. Do you think they're going to read the manual to understand WTF the DIC or GOM is doing? No, it should just be self-explanatory like every other gas car out there.

To understand any GOM you need to understand some physics. If everything is fed directly inside your throat you will not learn and understand (this is not directed to you). Of all GOM I've seen and compared I think GM nailed it on the bolt. People lack understanding the basics behind energy consumption

 

[finch4ever]

Lots of rentals (non-EV) have GOMs. I usually just ignore them, because I'd have to spend time I don't have trying to read the manual (if there even is one in the glove box) to figure out how to reset it. So it goes on registering fictitious miles-to-empty estimates based on the driving styles of the last dozen (hundred?) renters. Bolts at Hertz will be no different. Rarely, somebody will be interested enough to figure out the Vulcan Nerve Pinch needed to reset it. The rest of us will ignore it. I can read the declining bar graph and the miles in the trip odo (which is resettable with a hint how to in the DIC) to do my own miles-to-empty head calculation.

To make it clear I am not talking about the GOM functions and buttons, I am more talking about the GOM accuracy and why people post questions of how to interpret the numbers because they are not used to make the effort to understand the physics behind it. They just want the thing to be 100% accurate no matter what even if it never been that way even on ICE DIC or GOM

 

[finch4ever]

there are elements of information that contradict each other. If the DIC shows you one efficiency average and the GOM shows you one prediction and you do some math, they don't agree in general.

I don't know about that because in my experience the GOM was about almost spot on. But since I understand some physics and how to interpret the real time KW usage and the trend line and the green bars I don't care about the GOM estimate middle number. What I can say is that props to GM for including more info on the DIC then few. The KIA EV I drive sometimes is way out of accuracy and there are almost no information on the GOM except for one number. The trend line, the min max, the KW usage in real time is absent in the Kia and I love to have it in the bolt. Now sure it might be somewhat confusing at first and maybe you need to read the manual to clarify some stuff but I feel it is intuitive in general . The discussion started about how to interpret the numbers and the accuracy being off sometimes. There is too many variables to make it 100% accurate on any cars so that is why how ever you decide to make a GOM people will need to understand the basic physics which they didn't care in a ICE car

 

[finch4ever]

There is an example on the sticky thread and a brief discussion about the discrepancy before it got locked.

and they often disagree until the car's been driven 15 miles or so. After that they are usually within a tenth of a kWh per mile. At least the displays in my car do.

@enslay So where is the problem?

 

[finch4ever]

The DIC also has its own separate running efficiency average which you can view fiddling with up/down arrows on the steering wheel. This one can also disagree with GOM especially if you don't reset it for a long time. The sticky thread, for example shows 4.3 miles/kWh on the DIC with a 306 mile range prediction GOM. The two disagree... but notice the DIC running average has thousands of miles on it.

I don't look at average honestly. For me this is a minor glitch and doesn't keep me away of understanding how far I can go with the car

 

[finch4ever]

The point is that if you know the math/physics, but you don't know the systems are all separate systems making their own individual measurements, then it's easy to confuse yourself and may mislead you about range or the health of your car's battery. If your car is new, it might even lead you to think your battery is defective... and often is the case, unnecessarily concerned people are doing silly things like measuring battery capacity at DCFC or through math or buying OBD2 adapters to look at cell information... all because of the GOM.

I understand where you are going and I don't completely disagree. My examples and my posts were more about people that comes from a minimalist GOM on a ICE car and freaking out when analyzing the bolts GOM because the numbers doesn't reflect real time and they often do not understand the concept of energy consumption. Coming from an ICE mentality to an EV is not an easy task even if the physics laws are the same, but they never thought about it until then. I still prefer more numbers then less. On my Kia EV, the GOM si sooo simplistic, exactly like an ICE, that you cant even analyze anything

 

[finch4ever]

The majority of drivers who sit behind the wheel of ANY vehicle, will blindly trust the information presented to them. And the fact is that they've gotten used to quite significant accuracy in what they were presented by ICE vehicle's gas gauges.

Wait what? How is it more accurate? And yes it is a problem that people blindly trust that info. The reason they blindly trust the ICE DIC info is because they don't pay attention at it. Gas is abundant and hassle free. Put those drivers in an EV and the dynamics changes (in regard to the relation drivers have with the info in front of them) but it is still the same physics

 

[finch4ever]

edit ...nvm

 

[finch4ever]

What I'm referring to is the fact that, in most cases, gas gauges will show consistent reading regardless of temperatures and the fact that you just went up a hill. Of course there's variation in the range that's represented in association with the fuel capacity, but generally that isn't affected by it being 30 degrees outside. Thus my observation on accuracy.

The gas gauges in a ICE car is the exact equivalent of the green bars in the Bolt and sorry to say the green bars in the Bolt is AS accurate as a gas gauge. The distance you can travel from the gas you have or the green bars you have is relative to physics on BOTH cars. So no I don't see your point

30degrees outside does not affect the green bars display but it affects the energy consumption just like with gas

 

[finch4ever]

But if it's integrated in the DIC and using all this extra information, you may not need to show drivers Min/Max and trend lines and other measures of uncertainty. If you're more certain about the road ahead, the Bolt's GOM arbitrary +/-18% margin (Min/Max) may theoretically shrink to something more negligible that it might as well not be shown. At the end of the day, less could be more for a simpler UI.

What's up with the show less is better. Of course more is better. My gf's Kia Ev has way less info then the bolts DIC and she got stranded going uphill with a low battery just recently. Given a trend line and a instant KW number would of made the difference

 

[finch4ever]

You have a sticky that explains the "more" part as it is... the sticky exists because apparently people are confused and post about it a lot. So if you have a more concise and straightforward way to communicate information, there should be less to figure out. Another improvement is to integrate the GOM, Infotainment and DIC efficiency displays so that they all tell you the same thing. I doubt anyone absolutely needs to know the average efficiency of their car after driving 4000 miles (like in the sticky). Knowing what the GOM thinks your more localized efficiency is is a lot more useful.

Yes people may get confused coming from an ICE car going to a Bolt because there is so much more info's. Like I said people in ICE car do not pay much attention to the GOM because they are used to it that way because of gas abundance. It was never in our nature to really care (unless on a very tight budget). EV changed the game a little bit, drivers are a bit more afraid to run out of electrons so we pay more attention to the DIC and we get scared about it. We panic about those numbers that drops because of speed or wind or heating etc. The more info you have the better to understand the cars behavior. It is adaptation. I came from an ICE and never bothered with it, switching to an EV it became a concern until I understood it. My GF to this day still see's her car like an ICE because she doesn't have the info in her face to make her realize what's going on. There is literally only one number showing that does not fluctuate whether she activate the heater or not

 

[finch4ever]

Switch to "Classic" layout and be done with it.
View attachment 52373

Dude you nailed it