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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I've been keeping an eye on my driving score on my commute. I use the Cruise Control if I'm able (when there's little to no traffic), and this early morning drive got me these scores. I do have a small hill it has to go over (the Dublin Grade on I580). You'd think that being the car itself, it'd have good technique...

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GOM after decelerating and stopping off the freeway exit.

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Apparently my cruise control technique sucks, y'all.
 

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OMG Wang, I know you are new to the forum but you have stalked enough of the threads to know that you are looking at a reset GOM or a new car with less than a few thousand miles still learning about your driving habits. @p7wang
And btw, I know old people like it warm, but 78 degree's?
 

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The Range Impacts tab is basically useless:

1) I have no control over outside temperature - interesting information, nothing more.
2) Terrain - mine is totally flat, and I go where I need to go regardless of hill or dale
3) Climate Settings - I nearly always take a couple point hit on that, but who the heck wants to drive while sweating or freezing to save 11 cents worth of electricity?
4) Technique - in a nutshell, drive gently - moderately accelerate to reasonable speeds; anticipate stops, maximize regen. Specifically, try to keep the kW power indicator under 30 kW unless climbing a hill, and manage stops via L mode only, grabbing the paddle only when necessary and pressing the brake pedal only in emergencies.
 

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Oh, also the estimate is from your last 'full charge' - meaning the charger stopped after reaching your defined charge limit. My last full charge was 850 miles ago. In the last 850 miles, my avg was 5.4 mi/KWh.

Cruise control at 65 mph and getting 3.7 mi/KWh is just about right. Higher speed = more air resistance = lower efficiency.
 

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Cruise control technique.... you rapidly getting up to speed before setting cruise, and / or breaking hard when you come out of cruise is where technique comes into play.

Also, if you set the cruise to 35 mph this is seen as "good technique" even if the speed limit is 65. Setting the cruise to 70 is seen as "bad technique" even if the speed limit is 80 mph.

Useless screen.

Keith
 

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Useless screen. Keith
X10 with everyone else. The screen gives useless information.

Then, there are things most would like to know, but most manufacturers don't want to furnish real time information on battery life percentages. Most BEV owners would be so anal about that the Service Department would be barraged with complaints, "My battery is 2% lower than the other owners on the Bolt site."

FWIW, there are some valid complaints about the Leaf, usually in hot climes, such as https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/articl ... c-car.html
unfortunately, the owner didn't pursue his concerns and complaints up the line as soon as the problem manifested.

jack vines
 

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I find the GOM to be 50% useless, utterly a joke. The part that I find useless is the numbers, for me it's only usefulness is the bar graph indicator. I hilltop charge my car to 90%, my drive to work is 36 miles. Half of that is on the freeway, speed about 80-82. The rest is county highway, speed about 60 (posted 45). I get in the car, it tells me on average about 415 miles of max range. Here's a related example of mid trip. I know scientifically the way it calculates range is a bunch of formulas but for the last 15k + miles my drive has been the same. I'll start my day showing 415 miles. I'll drive 75 miles. Come home to that same range showing 270. No heat, little to no air conditioning. If I was going to go by one of the numbers, I would only use the minimum number, but quite frankly I don't think that is actually that accurate either. Maybe when the car is down to 20% battery it is more accurate but from a planning purpose when you start out with a full or 90% battery, the numbers just mean nothing. They, to me, are there to make someone comfortable or have a feel good moment.
gom.jpg
 

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GOM, lane detection, and seatbelt indicator all seem to be malfunctioning...
I have not had any problems with seatbelt tech, but the lane detection is more hoopla than it's worth. The collision avoidance/auto brake stuff is probably the spottiest tech on the Bolt. I already covered the GOM. I've seen some posts about the blindspot indicator being a problem and that there is a tech bulletin on it to 'mask' it. Not seen that myself. One of my biggest disappointments is the driver info is sheet. Pure sheet. The graphic where I can see electrons flowing to the motor. What a waste of programming code. The screen where it tells me how good of an energy conservation and driver, more waste of code. I could go on.
 

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The Range Impacts tab is basically useless:

1) I have no control over outside temperature - interesting information, nothing more.
2) Terrain - mine is totally flat, and I go where I need to go regardless of hill or dale
3) Climate Settings - I nearly always take a couple point hit on that, but who the heck wants to drive while sweating or freezing to save 11 cents worth of electricity?
4) Technique - in a nutshell, drive gently - moderately accelerate to reasonable speeds; anticipate stops, maximize regen. Specifically, try to keep the kW power indicator under 30 kW unless climbing a hill, and manage stops via L mode only, grabbing the paddle only when necessary and pressing the brake pedal only in emergencies.
The first three are only there to give you excuses you can use to tell other people why you don't get the full 238 mile range. :)
 

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The first three are only there to give you excuses you can use to tell other people why you don't get the full 238 mile range. :)
Today's screen...
With temps cooling and running the A/C minimally, I am doing way better than EPA rating. 338 miles if I were to fill it to 100%. Most of the gains, though, from 'technique' of city driving.

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27392
 

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Today's screen...
With temps cooling and running the A/C minimally, I am doing way better than EPA rating. 338 miles if I were to fill it to 100%. Most of the gains, though, from 'technique' of city driving.

View attachment 27391

View attachment 27392
My projected range is usually higher even, which makes it even more inaccurate in my opinion. You have too few miles on your Bolt for your data to jive. I'm showing 411 miles right now, I know that I'm not going to get that even with your 'technique' and quite frankly you aren't going to get 366 let alone 306. But make a YouTube video of a journey, take it to zero. Bring a Honda generator with you and a full featured EVSE to juice up to the point you can limp to a DCFC.
 

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I use the Cruise Control ... You'd think that being the car itself, it'd have good technique...
This is the perfect exemple of GIGO theory (Garbage In Garbage Out). I wonder what makes you think the cruise controll should be better than your ("manual") driving ? As far as I know, cruise controll takes care only of the speed, it keeps it the same no matter what, but it disregards the three factors that impact efficiency : terrain, outside temp and driving technique.
 

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Today's screen...
With temps cooling and running the A/C minimally, I am doing way better than EPA rating. 338 miles if I were to fill it to 100%. Most of the gains, though, from 'technique' of city driving.
I imagine you are driving the car 20 mph in average to get that number. 100 miles less would be the right number on a normal mix of city and highway driving.
 

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I imagine you are driving the car 20 mph in average to get that number. 100 miles less would be the right number on a normal mix of city and highway driving.
In city driving below 50mph. Yep, 20 MPH avg sounds about right. For my commute, I can go on the Interstate or take the local high way (takes a couple minutes longer), I choose the local highway for a quieter/safer/more efficient drive - thus TECHNIQUE. ;)
 

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I've had my Bolt EV for about 3 weeks so far, less than 500 miles. I noticed that if I resume my CC starting from a lesser speed, the car accelerates much faster on its own than if I did it. Thus I use CC only AFTER I attain my target speed. This behavior is different from the old Mazda3 I came from. We humans need to adjust to our new tech, as always.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
On just about every car I've driven/owned, CC always goes FULL THROTTLE to set speed. I'm happy to hear at least one mfr (Mazda) does it somewhat correctly.
 
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