I was thinking of installing a 14-50 outlet in my garage a couple feet below my circuit breaker. i called an electrician. he was saying it would cost like $200 but he was saying i should check my main breaker and that there was some Tesla charging install he did recently. The guy's breaker wasn't enough or having issues? so I did go outside and look at my main breaker, and it's only 100A. is that enough to charge a Bolt at 32amp with the dual level charger?
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Linkin06
from your description, it sounds like you have a sub panel in the garage that's on a 100 amp breaker from the main panel. Is that correct? I've got that kind of setup in the garage where I installed a 14-50 outlet but on a 40 amp breaker.
You could get charger that lets you set the amperage. I know the Grizzl-e classic let's you select 16,24,32 or 40amp with dip switches
This is one of the reasons why we pay professionals to do the job. It's your electrician's job to come out and do the load calculation to determine if it can support the circuit. Call your electrician back, tell him it's 100 amps and that you have gas oven and furnace. Let them determine if it's enough.
ga2500ev
ga2500ev
I have an electric stove, 100A main, and I installed a ChargePoint Flex with a 60A breaker and routinely use it to charge my EUV at 48A. It's not a problem. But, perhaps the key here is that I charge my car at night (when I am not using the oven), I have a gas dryer, furnace, and water heater, and it's only my wife and I in this house. 100A service is no problem for me at all. I did install the Flex charger myself and just had the electrical inspector come and sign off on it. I'm confident in being able to do the work without issues. If anyone isn't then they should hire a professional.
Absolutely possible. I have a 100amp main and I even ran a 100 amp extension to my garage so I can charge 2 EVs at once. I have so little draw in my house. Heat is oil, gas hot water, gas stove and dryer.
Definitely, with how you're typing, do not DIY. Instead of a book shelf falling off the wall and tearing out drywall people could be hospitalized or houses burned 😁
Get a couple of quotes from some electricians, the first one will be able to tell you about your load. Even if you can't run a hardwired Juicebox 48, you can probably still get some kind of L2 charging.
Definitely, with how you're typing, do not DIY. Instead of a book shelf falling off the wall and tearing out drywall people could be hospitalized or houses burned 😁
Get a couple of quotes from some electricians, the first one will be able to tell you about your load. Even if you can't run a hardwired Juicebox 48, you can probably still get some kind of L2 charging.
You'll be fine. Breaker boxes are confusing, bc if you add up all the circuits amperage, you can easily get 3x the rating of the main breaker (100A in your case). This is just bc you are never going to run all those circuits near their max at the same time. And IF you did, it would just pop the main breaker... your house would go dark, but there would be no damage/fire.
Your electrician can tell you how many amps you can use for L2. A 14-50 outlet is only rated for 40A continuous. If he/she says that is too much, you can just get a smaller L2. You can almost certainly add a 30A breaker and 24A EVSE, and that is 6+kW, and would charge a Bolt from empty to full in ~11 hours. That is, overnight.
Your electrician can tell you how many amps you can use for L2. A 14-50 outlet is only rated for 40A continuous. If he/she says that is too much, you can just get a smaller L2. You can almost certainly add a 30A breaker and 24A EVSE, and that is 6+kW, and would charge a Bolt from empty to full in ~11 hours. That is, overnight.
I am on a 60 Amp service. Gas range, gas water heater, gas dryer, mini-split air conditioning/heat pump. My Level 2 charger is a Clipper Creek LCS-20. Yes, a low power Level 2, but more than enough for my needs. There is a frequent misconception that you must install the most powerful EVSE you can. Even though my EVSE can only output about 3840 Watts, that is like 12-15 miles per hour charging. As I said, way more than enough for my needs. In your shoes I think I might want to find an adjustable output EVSE. Wire it to support 32 Amp charging, but give your self the option of turning it down when there might be too much load on the system.
I have an all electric home in Texas and so far have never been close to 100A. Once I was welding and got kinda high but normally the largest load is EV at 6Kwh at night plus hot tub and some background use. 8.1Kwh.
I bought a GE like the Grizzl-e just so I could reduce the power. I easily charge at 24A over a few hours. EVSE can provide more power than my old Bolt can use.
You should tell us how many miles you expect to drive each day and how long you have to recharge. I tend to let charger fall a bit behind during week and let it catchup on weekends. I'm just that cheap.
As noted above, have a professional conduct a load calculation.
I bought a GE like the Grizzl-e just so I could reduce the power. I easily charge at 24A over a few hours. EVSE can provide more power than my old Bolt can use.
You should tell us how many miles you expect to drive each day and how long you have to recharge. I tend to let charger fall a bit behind during week and let it catchup on weekends. I'm just that cheap.
As noted above, have a professional conduct a load calculation.
there's this:
Electrical Load Calculations for Residential Service Panel - Online Load Calculator
ask-the-electrician.com
I’ve got you all beat! I’ve got 20A service…at 120V! I’m off-grid, and limited by my inverter. I installed a hard-wired Clipper Creek Level 1 EVSE this weekend, and put the OEM EVSE back in the trunk. I’ve been thinking I’ll be able to do about half of my charging at home over the course of the year; the past few weeks, I’ve done nearly all of my charging at home.
Work with what you have. Unless you’re maxing out your car’s range on a regular basis, you’ll probably be able to do most or all of your charging at home.
Work with what you have. Unless you’re maxing out your car’s range on a regular basis, you’ll probably be able to do most or all of your charging at home.
As others have said, really depends on your current load. I have 125A panel, but only big items on it are the AC(25A) and Dryer(30A). We have a gas stove and furnace and then the rest is just lights and outlets so plenty of capacity for a 40A circuit. Plus I had room on the panel to add the 40A breaker so that's another thing, if you have a full panel could need a sub-panel for just the breaker.
Also I think depending on the Tesla charger it could use 80A so that's not an apples to apples.
BUT, if you're not entirely comfortable best to have an electrician review, and sometimes even if you are
Also I think depending on the Tesla charger it could use 80A so that's not an apples to apples.
BUT, if you're not entirely comfortable best to have an electrician review, and sometimes even if you are
I had no issues using a 14-50 @ 40A for EVSE in a main panel rated for 125A. Never popped the breaker even with the central air running in the summer.
I have a 100 amp panel, got rid of a large fish tank and freed up enough for a 16 amp EVSE and it meets my 100Km daily needs summer or winter.
Sorry, I meant χίλιοι in lower case.
When I went to electronic school they used to use K and it wasn't special.
When I went to electronic school they used to use K and it wasn't special.
If the city is getting uppity about a permit for a 14-50, then get a NEMA 6-20 and buy a TurboCord. It'll be cheaper than upgrading your service, that's for sure.
Some of the Teslas will slurp up 80 amps, which is a lot and I am not surprised electricians see some shenanigans. I only have 100 amps at home, and we have two EVs too, plus and electric stove and an air conditioner. Be that as it may, we never really crack 50 amps whole house, and usually not even above 36 amps except for a few seconds here and there. We've never popped the main. Not even close.
We run the chargers at 12 and 16 amps and charge late at night or first thing in the morning when nothing else is on, plus some other tricks in the setup.
Definitely consider a charger that you can change the power on, and set it to the lowest you can live with. Every component in the system from the panel to the charge port in the car will thank you for the lower heat load. Even when everything "works fine" there's no real point in running any hotter than you actually need to.***
If you're a real nerd, you can set the charger up to drop back to 6 amps, or even sleep when the air conditioner or stove turns on. (Home Assistant, MQTT, OpenEVSE, OpenEnergyMonitor)
*** There are arguments made about whether lower or higher amperage home charging is more efficient, but the differences, if they exist at all, are hard to spot and too subtle for most grownups to worry about.
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Some of the Teslas will slurp up 80 amps, which is a lot and I am not surprised electricians see some shenanigans. I only have 100 amps at home, and we have two EVs too, plus and electric stove and an air conditioner. Be that as it may, we never really crack 50 amps whole house, and usually not even above 36 amps except for a few seconds here and there. We've never popped the main. Not even close.
We run the chargers at 12 and 16 amps and charge late at night or first thing in the morning when nothing else is on, plus some other tricks in the setup.
Definitely consider a charger that you can change the power on, and set it to the lowest you can live with. Every component in the system from the panel to the charge port in the car will thank you for the lower heat load. Even when everything "works fine" there's no real point in running any hotter than you actually need to.***
If you're a real nerd, you can set the charger up to drop back to 6 amps, or even sleep when the air conditioner or stove turns on. (Home Assistant, MQTT, OpenEVSE, OpenEnergyMonitor)
*** There are arguments made about whether lower or higher amperage home charging is more efficient, but the differences, if they exist at all, are hard to spot and too subtle for most grownups to worry about.
No problem. We have 100A service, and converted a 3 way circuit in our garage, which is fed underground 50' from the house, to a 240 box with welding outlet. Factory cable with adapter runs our two Bolts with no problems. Remember that the factory cable is only 14/3, and the onboard charger doesn't draw much, so the load isn't very great in the first place.
Our first house had a huge fireplace (cast iron Heatolator) that could absolutely roast the entire 1500 sq foot house. However, the wife and both kids had asthma, and couldn't tolerate even a little smoke within the home. Our new home was built with one of those cheap sheet metal fireplaces, and I don't think it's had a fire in it more than twice in 32 years. But this house is 3700 sq ft on three floors, so it couldn't be heated from the fireplace anyway.
I've noted quite a number of solar installations in my neighborhood over the last few years. If I was planning on staying in this house for another 10+ years, I'd probably add some as well. But this is way to large for the two of us after I get around to retiring.
I've noted quite a number of solar installations in my neighborhood over the last few years. If I was planning on staying in this house for another 10+ years, I'd probably add some as well. But this is way to large for the two of us after I get around to retiring.
Yes, I have two Grizzl-e's one set at 32 amp and the other at 24 amp and my next largest consumer is central air condenser at 32 amp.
Just don't exceed 80% for continuous draw on any circuit. So on a 240v 100 amp service that is 19.2kw. I have consumption monitoring and have run up to 18kw for hours with no issue...stuff does get warm thou within tolerances.
Just don't exceed 80% for continuous draw on any circuit. So on a 240v 100 amp service that is 19.2kw. I have consumption monitoring and have run up to 18kw for hours with no issue...stuff does get warm thou within tolerances.
Most homes can upgrade to a 200 amp service by just changing the circuit braker panel.
So if you are concerned about amps just as the electrician to upgrade to the 200 amp service. Maybe $600 to $1000 if everything is easy access. Get multiple quotes as electrician are all over the place with prices.
So if you are concerned about amps just as the electrician to upgrade to the 200 amp service. Maybe $600 to $1000 if everything is easy access. Get multiple quotes as electrician are all over the place with prices.
I've used wood heat for 40+ years. All fruit wood from local orchards that is mostly just piled and burned to get it out of the way since it's a desert and will take too long to rot. So it's cheap, free if you want to go out and cut it up yourself and I consider it carbon neutral because it'll be burned as waste if we don't get it. Got a 1979 Jotul 118 (Norwegian) with green enamel coating. The inside castings have all been replaced but all the outside castings are still nearly pristine.
Originally we had just baseboards as back-up but now I have one mini-split. It can't heat the house on its own but it keeps the baseboards off when we're gone and it keeps the house warmer at night during very cold weather.
Originally we had just baseboards as back-up but now I have one mini-split. It can't heat the house on its own but it keeps the baseboards off when we're gone and it keeps the house warmer at night during very cold weather.
I grew up with a coal stove and a coal pile in the back yard. In Queens, NY. I have just as many questions.
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