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I ended up doing the Ozium driver as well since the other driver wouldn't work. Seems to be working fine and I've included the wiring diagram for anyone who wants to try it out. I had the same behavior where it wouldn't dim unless I cut the grounds to each taillight, wonder if that's a clue as to why the other drivers wouldn't work? View attachment 50193
Very helpful. What dimming level did you settle on - 20, 30, 40 or 50%?
 
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Very helpful. What dimming level did you settle on - 20, 30, 40 or 50%?
I left it as dim as it would go so 50%. Even at that level it's a pretty subtle change, would almost want to do 75 but I don't want to start throwing resistors in there on a PWM circuit. Either way, much better than stock.
 
I left it as dim as it would go so 50%. Even at that level it's a pretty subtle change, would almost want to do 75 but I don't want to start throwing resistors in there on a PWM circuit. Either way, much better than stock.
Thanks. I was assuming that 20% meant 20% of original brightness. Here's what their description says:
Brightness in Low Intensity Mode (Selectable)20%, 30%, 40%, 50%

I guess you toggled through the options?
 
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Thanks. I was assuming that 20% meant 20% of original brightness. Here's what their description says:
Brightness in Low Intensity Mode (Selectable)20%, 30%, 40%, 50%

I guess you toggled through the options?
I did but it was also during the day so I'm sure the difference is more pronounced at night which is when I really wanted it to be working. I think 50 is good, I'll check when it's later and I can get someone in the driver's seat to toggle the brakes for me.
 
I did but it was also during the day so I'm sure the difference is more pronounced at night which is when I really wanted it to be working. I think 50 is good, I'll check when it's later and I can get someone in the driver's seat to toggle the brakes for me.
Well, since the toggles aren't labeled, what you think is 50% might actually be 20%. Anyway, you think the dimmest setting available is the best. The OP suggested the same setting using the other device. This will only matter at night when the headlights are on, and the dimmest setting should be fine. After all, there are side tail lights on the body, also. During daytime, the tail lights are off unless the brakes are applied.
 
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Well, since the toggles aren't labeled, what you think is 50% might actually be 20%. Anyway, you think the dimmest setting available is the best. The OP suggested the same setting using the other device. This will only matter at night when the headlights are on, and the dimmest setting should be fine. After all, there are side tail lights on the body, also. During daytime, the tail lights are off unless the brakes are applied.
Using the Dynamic Diodes PWM, I adjusted the low setting to around 50-60% brightness. The lowest setting was way too dim and visibility is the name of the game. With the brakes applied, there is a noticeable difference in the brightness that will certainly alert the drivers behind you.

There is a big difference between 20% and 50%.
 
Is there a clear diagram, pictures, instructions on how to do this for an EV (not EUV)? or just which wires to cut and connect too? I see some of you guys have done it but maybe I missed the info...
Sorry and thank you in advance!
 
Hello to everyone, This is my third post on this modification. My Diode dynamics units stopped working after 2 days , First it was the driver side , then 1 day later the pass side. I have tried to readjust them to no avail. It send thru full brightness in either running lights or brake - turn lights. As I stated in a earlier post since I was putting in a trailer harness I would hook up for turn signals as well. So I used 2 units. At the moment I have just disconnected the white connector ( I used crimped Female connectors to match the PWM module ) so this is easy. I think I am going to be satisfied with adding day and night turn and stop lighting to the hatch and relying on the side marker lights for night time running lights. Hopefully a reliable solution will be found and I will add the running light feature back in . I will be contacting Diode Dynamics to see how they want to handle reimbursement replacement if they have solve the issue. Rich In Buffalo.
 
Keep us posted on what Diode Dynamics says. Mine has been in for 31 days now and is still working.
 
I contacted Diode Dynamics and they indicated that they have not had a reliability problem and will send me a new pair to put in . I will let the group in on the outcome. Rich
 
Would it be possible to just shut off the two inner tailgate lamps and only wire them to the 3rd brake light?
The two outside lamps are sufficient to me. Having 4 bright lamps seem unnecessary at night.
 
You could, but I don’t think you would want to lose the tail lamps as marker lights at night.
 
I thought about that, after driving around for a wile last week , looking at how other small SUV'S handled lighting just our side marker lights with out the hatch lights should be sufficient . I will take the full time upper turn and stops as a safety gain over the smaller running lights at night any time. All that being said , I still hope to get the dimmed tail light up and running.
 
Would it be possible to just shut off the two inner tailgate lamps and only wire them to the 3rd brake light?
The two outside lamps are sufficient to me. Having 4 bright lamps seem unnecessary at night.
I thought about that, after driving around for a wile last week , looking at how other small SUV'S handled lighting just our side marker lights with out the hatch lights should be sufficient . I will take the full time upper turn and stops as a safety gain over the smaller running lights at night any time. All that being said , I still hope to get the dimmed tail light up and running.
Having the tail lights operating solely as brake lights is an easy mod. You would only have to clip the power wire going to the tail lights, tap into the brake light wire and then connect it to the power wires going to the tail lights. That’s it.
 
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