[jasonlau006]

I guess I spoke too soon. It's been about 6 days and the dimmer function is no longer working. I think I'm done spending any more time on it.

 

[Jim99]

I guess I spoke too soon. It's been about 6 days and the dimmer function is no longer working. I think I'm done spending any more time on it.

I’m really sorry to hear that the PWM stopped working.

My Diode Dynamics PWM has been installed and working for 36 days now. I guess I’m lucky. I do check it daily to make sure it is still functioning properly.

I wonder if the original poster, @pkaso , has had any issues with his unit. Hopefully a better fix will come along in the future.

 

[Wattz]

I wonder if the original poster, @pkaso , has had any issues with his unit. Hopefully a better fix will come along in the future.

It looks like he hasn't swung by here in a couple of weeks. He might answer in the YouTube comments with the video he was good enough to make for us in Post #93 of this thread.

 

[no-gas]

@Jim99 I'm curious how many miles have you driven since you installed it?

I think the device is getting too hot and is failing.

 

[Jim99]

@Jim99 I'm curious how many miles have you driven since you installed it?

I think the device is getting too hot and is failing.

I’ve driven it about 1,200 miles since installing the PWM. I have quite a few trips that lasted over an hour and many in stop and go traffic. About 1/3 of my driving is at night, so both the high and low voltage features of the PWM were in use in my driving.

Your assessment about the device certainly seems plausible and might very well be the issue. However, I can’t be that lucky with the unit I received…. Can I?

 

[randnon]

Well I put the free replacements in again in a couple of day they stopped dimming the taillights, I will be returning they for whatever refund I can get . I did talk to their tech and mentioned that the units get a little warm when the running lights are on, He thought that the draw might just be too much for their units. I will be disconnecting the running lights on the hatch and using them as turn and stops.

 

[Jim99]

The hatch lights draw somewhere around 1/3 of an amp each, yet the Dynamic Diode PCM is rated to handle 2 amps if I remember correctly. So, if the Dynamic Diode rating is accurate, then something else is causing the failure.

I cannot think of anything I did differently from anyone else here that would result in my hookup continuing to work now for 1 1/2 months. I tapped into the hatch lights closer to the lights themselves as opposed to up at the top of the hatch by the connector plug. Is there any resistor in between the supply side of the connector and the lights themselves?

 

[PSHome]

I mod my 2023 Bolt EUV LT tail light

I just partially completed this on my 2023 Bolt EV. Instructions are great. Brake lights now show on gate! However, running lights do not appear to be dimmed. Either the screw / trimpot isn’t adjusted correctly or I don’t have it grounded correctly. Do you recall if the screw needs to be in or out for 10%power? Alternatively, maybe I do not have it grounded correctly which causes the low power to default to high.

 

[PSHome]

After fiddling a bit and reading through 12 pages of comments... maybe my PWM dimmer isn't working. I questioned my ground, but switched from grounding to the car to tapping into a ground this morning, but no impact on dimming.

 

[Lmattiso]

After fiddling a bit and reading through 12 pages of comments... maybe my PWM dimmer isn't working. I questioned my ground, but switched from grounding to the car to tapping into a ground this morning, but no impact on dimming.

I would just get the Oznium dimmer and use that instead. Was impressed with the build quality and haven't had an issue since I installed mine.

 

[PSHome]

I would just get the Oznium dimmer and use that instead. Was impressed with the build quality and haven't had an issue since I installed mine.

Ordered and will follow your connections from post #200... without your diagram, I would have wired the running lights to the trigger neg. Should have the Oznium this weekend.

 

[pkaso]

It looks like he hasn't swung by here in a couple of weeks. He might answer in the YouTube comments with the video he was good enough to make for us in Post #93 of this thread.

No issue, 2200 miles, use car daily multiple short trips, but i live in urban area, NO TRAFFIC.
Some suggestions:
This tail lights mod is for 2023 Chevy Bolt EUV LT, i dont know if its the same for other models and years.
You have to be absolutely sure about wires and power flow direction before you install dimmer.
Follow instruction to identify wires and connect and test dimmer.
All connection should be done when power is off to tail lights and stop light.
Care should be done about static electricity.
I solder wires for best connection.
You can test dimmer using any small 12 vdc LED and 12 volt battery (9volt may work) before you cut any wires in yours car.
DO NOT use incandescent 12volt car bulb, PWM Dimmer will not work and may get damaged.
DO NOT connect power ( ) positive or ground (-) negative to output wire of the dimmer!
Absolutely be sure you have good connection to GROUND (-).
If you dont have experience with car electric system (installing aftermarket radio, alarm system and other) ask for help.
Good luck.

 

[Abdul]

I’m not sure what you did. Can you explain how the lights work now compared to stock.

I also own a 2022 and 2023 bolt EUV. on the stock car, the day time running light is always on at night. however, during the day, it never comes on even when you apply the brake. When breaking only the bottom two lights and the top middle light comes on. this causes many drivers behind you confused and i have received honks for no reason because apparently the person behind me was too lose and didn't see the break light. some people expect the middle lights to come on when breaking and they don't see the middle light come on by design they think the lights aren't working. I hope this help.

 

[209EUV]

Did this mod today, so far so good. I used one unit for each side except I used t taps instead of cutting and splicing the brown wire with yellow stripe.

 

[mwsssmws]

Using the diodedynamics modules, one module per side, I followed instructions to the letter, matched images and videos, followed wiring, pretty straightforward and video is great, and yes the DRLs light up in day when lights are off and braking, but then the DRLs are stuck at full brightness at night. When trying to adjust the POT to troubleshoot the inability to dim, I noticed the boards were rather loose inside, but still gingerly adjusted POT, with no change in DRL brightness at either extreme on either side, both modules, and after about 5 minutes of testing, one of the modules started smoking. So took everything off and it's back to the drawing board. Looks like Oznium is my next stop.

 

[LoneR]

I did electrical work in cars for many years. I can see by some of the diagrams provided here, that these modifications do not take into account the direction of current flow nor the amount of potential current.

 

[gzebrick]

I'm in the same camp. I just installed them on our new 2023 EUV - They don't work. I wired per the video - triple-checked, everything soldered and proper. Works same as before I added them. No dimming,. I guess the PWM modules are faulty. The circuit boards rattle in the cases. I'm going to try to return them.

 

[mwsssmws]

After my failure with the PWMs per OP, and yeah, probably bad units as the board rattled inside, they seemed poorly made anyway), I decided I wanted any modded brake lights on the liftgate to flash as well, so ended up getting the Oznium LED PWM dimmer (sealed/rated for 4.8A w nice big knob), the OONO 1NO 1NC 8A power relay, and the Acouto Adjustable LED Flasher Module (this takes a while to arrive tho) off Amazon. This way, I can tune the dimming of the liftgate running lights easily, without issues with load/polarity of the PWM, then when the third brake light comes on, the relay cuts off the running light power and switches in power from the third brake light to pass through to the flasher module, then to the liftgate lights. I'll throw in some diodes too, just in case.

The result should be easily adjusted running lights with an all sealed module with plenty of overhead, plus when I step on the brakes, I'll get adjustable flashes for the brakes lights on the liftgate running lights. (BTW I got these flashers specifically because I wanted just 4 quick flashes then steady, not 4 quick, 4 slow, then steady, like virtually all the other modules, so as not to be annoying to the car behind me, esp. in 1 pedal mode. These were the only flashers giving this specific option, weirdly, unless I could drop in flashing/strobe LEDs.)

Will post video/photos when I get this set up over the weekend.

Of course, this doesn't solve the turn signal. The best way I could come up with to clearly the show turn signals at the rear is to add in two LED light modules and power them off either wiring for the tail lights from the fusebox or from the tail lights directly from the rear bumper. (Ideal to do this when I install the rear hitch....)

It's too bad that not only is the liftgate light module on the EUV set up the way it is to be just dumb dumb running light, but it's also just one circuit in the module, same as with the tail lights on bumper, so we can't even parse out the turn signal from brake light. Argh!! This forced me to choose Red turn arrow modules for the additional turn lights, so when I step on the brakes, I get basically elongated third brake light all in red, rather than red in middle flanked by amber/yellow lights, which would have greatly improved visibility (over the red) when turning.

 

[209EUV]

If you want the body mounted lights to be running/brake/turn you can splice in an oznium pwm dual intensity brake light driver on each side.

Pull the side panels of the trunk area, you'll see a connector with a green and black wire for the taillight. Green is the positive and black is negative.

I ran a wire from the blue wire on the pwm driver down and out of the vent under the hatch latch, over the metal bumper and connected it to the violet wire that goes to the bumper light.

There isn't much room to work where the bumper light connectors are. It's not necessary to remove the bumper, but it'll probably save you some grief.

 

[LoneR]

@209EUV Could you show us the lights in action?