[209EUV]

I'll try to get a video posted tonight or tomorrow.

 

[mwsssmws]

Totally awesome, thanks so much! Got your info just in time. This will save me much grief and save having me wait until I install the hitch to get the lights done. Much obliged!

If you want the body mounted lights to be running/brake/turn you can splice in an oznium pwm dual intensity brake light driver on each side.

Pull the side panels of the trunk area, you'll see a connector with a green and black wire for the taillight. Green is the positive and black is negative.

I ran a wire from the blue wire on the pwm driver down and out of the vent under the hatch latch, over the metal bumper and connected it to the violet wire that goes to the bumper light.

There isn't much room to work where the bumper light connectors are. It's not necessary to remove the bumper, but it'll probably save you some grief.

 

[JJMat]

I ended up doing the Ozium driver as well since the other driver wouldn't work. Seems to be working fine and I've included the wiring diagram for anyone who wants to try it out. I had the same behavior where it wouldn't dim unless I cut the grounds to each taillight, wonder if that's a clue as to why the other drivers wouldn't work?

edit: fixed wrong wire colors for +Trig and +In.
View attachment 50204

Lmattiso - This has been greatly helpful. The picture makes it very clear. Completed the mod today AM using the Oznium module and it works like a charm. Will observe how it holds up over time.

 

[Lmattiso]

Lmattiso - This has been greatly helpful. The picture makes it very clear. Completed the mod today AM using the Oznium module and it works like a charm. Will observe how it hold up over time.

That's great to hear, my lights are still working great, no issues!

 

[209EUV]

Here's a video of my lights in action.

 

[LoneR]

Here's a video of my lights in action.

That is the perfect version of the taillight mod I have seen. I know you spent some time planning the configuration and you did an excellent job.

 

[JJMat]

To me, which tail-light mod to select was a Risk vs Reward trade-off. I’m a novice in diy mod; so wanted to do something which is the least invasive but helps with improving safety.

• bigger safety concern of brake light vs turn indicator
• minimum number of panels to pull out
• minimum number of wires to cut
• work limited to one major point vs doing it all over the hatch, bumpers etc

The mod that pkaso suggested was perfect with above points considered. He had good pointers on which connector to pull, which wires to cut and where to cut etc.. Since I saw concerns from many on the longevity of the diode dynamics module, then thought the Oznium one was probably better one. The clear connectivity diagram from Lmattiso made it a no-brainer on using the Oznium one since it had more wires to deal with.. I agree the best outcome possibly is the one posted by 209EUV but to me it seemed too much work to do.

Best wishes to all doing the mods.. possibly choose yours depending on how much work you want to do.

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

Hey Lmattiso,

Sent you a PM but maybe someone else can also answer.

Where is connector X901 located? Behind the trim pieces in back on the left rear trunk area?

 

[209EUV]

The connector is at the top of the hatch, there's pictures in the first post.

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

The connector is at the top of the hatch, there's pictures in the first post.

Lmattiso had PM'd me back about the time I went back and re-read the post and this time I put on my reading glasses-

X109 is on the back hatch. It's to the left in the pictures (actually right/passenger side) Under the tupperware.

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

Special thanks to Lmattiso for his wiring diagram & help.

Thought I would post up some additional tips for the Oznium driver-

On a 2023, you don't have to remove the one time use pins for the luggage cover or the side pieces. You only need to remove the upper piece of trim. It pops right off.

Here is what is under that upper trim piece and where you will be working-

If you pop out the wire loom holder, you can slide it up the harness a couple inches for room to install your splices.

If you use a seam ripper, it works perfectly to open the tape on the loom. If you have ever taken a GM-SET or GM-AET class, that is the tool you are told to use for GM wiring harness work.

Here is the area you will be working in. Just behind the X901 connector. Use your preferred splicing method. I used GM PN#19300089 & 19168447 wire splice connectors. (Krimp & Seal connectors)

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

Another helpful tip on the Oznium driver. . . that others can chime in on. . . .if I'm wrong.

The button that changes the output. . . .20, 30, 40, 50. . . .

It does NOT make the lights (brake light function) brighter. It dims the tail/park lights.

I went with the recommended setting earlier in this thread at 50%.

That means it dims the tail lights 50%. The brake light activation makes the lights come on to 100%.

So the brake light function really shows up.

 

[LoneR]

@LittleBlue2-2 The issue becomes, is the taillamp too dim for proper operation? There must be standards for the number of candelas produced to meet D.O.T. regulations. Do the dimmed taillamps meet those criteria?

Edited this post for clarity, after reading @LittleBlue2-2's reply.

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

@LittleBlue2-2 The issue becomes, is the taillamp too dim for proper operation. There must be standards for the number of candelas produced to meet D.O.T. Does the dimmed taillamp meet that criteria.

Meh. . . . it's still got the marker lights on the rear quarter panels that can be seen from the rear.

If a person can't see those at night, in addition to the 50% dimmer hatch lights right next to them, they are either drunk, blind or have their face glued to a phone.

 

[Abdul]

I agree. with ARob. the point of this thread is to educate the public and those who are interested in this Mod. Those who disagree can just #Send.

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

I'm loving my hatch- brake light mod with the Oznium driver. I have noticed people not crawling up my ars anymore.


One thing I have found, there is an EMF produced from the LED driver while in normal park/tail lamp mode. If you listen to AM radio, you will hear it while the tail/park lamps are on. When the brake lights apply, it goes away.



Kind of neat. . . I can tell when the brake light activate while listening to AM radio if, the tail light are on.

Kind of aggravating. . . in the morning, when it's darker and I head to work and the tail lights are on, I get interference on AM. Can't listen to weather & traffic reports.

I'll take the safety and find another station on FM for weather & traffic. Or stream AM from my phone.


Over-all, I have noticed people behind me don't seem to ride my back side any more.

 

[LoneR]

Meh. . . . it's still got the marker lights on the rear quarter panels that can be seen from the rear.

If a person can't see those at night, in addition to the 50% dimmer hatch lights right next to them, they are either drunk, blind or have their face glued to a phone.

That's why there are regulations. So everyone can agree on the descriptions.

 

[Cruzincat50]

Has anyone merely replaced the top brake LEDs with brighter versions, in order to get more attention to the fact that you are braking?

 

[LoneR]

The lighting assembly is a sealed, integrated array. Also, it's unobtainable if you phucket up. Except for the backup lamp, all the body mounted rear lighting assemblies are this type as well.

 

[Bolt drvr]

All these mods to make the brake lights more visible is a welcome contrast to all the morons who black out their brake lights on other cars. Just sayin’