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Another inquiry from a (soon to be) Bolt Owner re Home Charging

13K views 98 replies 23 participants last post by  Bolt2019  
#1 ·
I see that a version of this question is put to the membership regularly. At the risk of trying your patience, here is what I think I have gleaned from the accumulated wisdom collected here:

  • My new Bolt will come with an OEM EVSE that terminates in a standard NA male household plug
  • The Bolt EVSE can charge at up to 12A and, subject to availability, can do so at 220V
  • If I have, say, an accessible NEMA 14-30 outlet near my garage with dedicated 30A 220V service, I should be able to buy something like this and hook it all up to get 12A 220V charging:

35315


Note I am in Ontario, and there seems to be less variety in available adapters.

I understand that 1) the above assumes that the 220V circuit is properly grounded at the panel, and 2) that I should secure the connection at the adapter to prevent any kind of mishap with plugging something in by mistake.

Do I have this right?

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Not that one. That's just a splitter to get two (visible) 120V outlets. Keep looking. They're all over the place here. Be aware that they're not to code and that the brick is not certified for 240V. But lots of people are doing. It works electrically.
You need an adapter that has the standard plug end having both prongs hot from the 240V. That's the non-standard part. It's suggested to strap or enclose that connection. If someone saw that open standard plug and plugs in some other thing...look out.
 
#4 ·
All 14 series adapters to a 5-15 will present 120V on the 5-15 which defeats the purpose. What you need is a 14-30 to 6-20 adapter. This one isn't perfect, but it's a good start:


It's a 14-50 unit. However you can grind off the neutral pin (the bottom straight blade) and it'll work with both a 14-50 and 14-30 socket.

The key is that the 6-20 will have 240V on it. Then use a growlight adapter:


to adapt to the 5-15 at 240V.

As always cover that final connection with a lockout:


ga2500ev
 
#7 ·
Yes you can make your own. And yes, you can find them pre-made. However, the cost on the pre-made ones are ridiculous. And many folks are not really comfortable doing their own wiring. The two piece adapter system is guaranteed to work as intended, is relatively inexpensive, and requires no DIY wiring. It's plug and play.

ga2500ev
 
#9 ·
Thanks very much.

I don't trust myself to make my own. And so far striking out on the all-in-one solution (found this interesting video though on the AC Works website, responding to Bolt owner-inquiries about using their products for this purpose:
). Continuing to look at all options.
 
#20 ·
.. Continuing to look at all options.
The best and safest option is Just Buy a proper L2 EVSE already.... :rolleyes:
L2 - 16A, 24A or 32A. Easy and the real deal.
No MacGyver-daptor sitting in your garage waiting for the day when someone plugs in a shop vac.
... I'm not judging what others might be willing to spend ....
OK, I will.:cool:
If you can afford a Bolt and there already is a 240V outlet in your garage??? Come on....:mad:
Open that dusty, moth-eaten billfold a tiny bit more and buy a Proper L2.;)

Somewhere, someday, in Cheapville, someone will plug in a fan or a shop vac or you name it.
Will they tell others about that day??:cautious:
 
#10 ·
This is the reason that the grow light adapter is considered to be the magic adapter. Unlike other devices, grow lights are often designed to operate at both 120V and 240V. So, even though they have a 120V 5-15 plug on them, they operate properly when supplied with 240V.

Any adapter cable for providing an EVSE 240V on a 5-15 receptacle is going to be custom built. And that means that it's going to be expensive.

Several of us have been at this for a while. There really isn't a better, cheaper solution than the 2 adapter setup. The grow light adapter is only an inch long. So, I'm not sure why some folks are hung up trying to identify an all in one solution.

ga2500ev
 
#13 ·
A little epoxy will make the 2 adapter solution an all-in-one...

Mostly joking, no idea how the materials they are made out of will react to common epoxies. I am thinking though that if having a clean looking setup is important then getting an EVSE with the specific plug desired is going to be the cleanest option. Especially if one were considering spending $150 on a 14-30 adapter it might be worth the extra $100 to just get a 24 amp EVSE.
 
#15 ·
Adapters tend to be costly unless one is willing to do this DIY. Skills required are attention to detail, ability to turn a screwdriver, and ability to strip wires.

Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, etc have 14-50, 14-30 plugs that can be attached to the end of a 5-15 or 5-20 extension cord. Here is a good plug option from Amazon, it can be easily adapted to work on either 14-30 or 14-50. In fact, the only difference is the straight vs L shaped blade, which is the neutral, so you can remove that blade entirely and just use the three blades (Hot\Hot\Ground).

Simply cut the receptacle end off of a standard 15 or 20A extension cord, expose the 3 wires which are generally color coded white\black\green. Connect the white and black wires to the hot blade connectors in the 14-50\30 plug, then green to the ground. Ignore the neutral connector on the 14-x plug. A 6FT length is probably ideal, but definitely longer than 1FT as you need some room to work with stripping the wires.

The following diagrams show the pins on the plugs\receptacles. Green meaning ground, white neutral, black hot. When making the connections, the white (neutral) wire on the cutoff extension cord will be attached to one of the two black hot blades on the 14-x plug. There is no difference in the wires other than color coding, this is done to make it simple to connect hot and neutral to the proper busses on the panel. Both wires are equally capable of carrying current because neutral needs to be able to carry 120V to the neutral bar in the event of a short. A 4-wire cable used to connect an appliance would tend to have black, red, white, and green wires with black and red carrying the load Your adapter will borrow the white wire from the extension cord as a second black (or red) wire.

35320
to
35321


One might wonder if the 5-x extension cord is heavy enough gauge wiring for this application. Keep in mind, you are sending 120V over each wire (white\black) and the OEM cord is limited to 12A. A 5-x extension cord is rated to carry 15A, so it is capable for this application. The Amps are what generate heat, heavier gauge wires dissipate heat better. But you are not sending more Amps over the wire as the "load" (OEM cord) dictates how much is demanded from the circuit.

If you want to take an extra test step, plug a hair dryer into the extension cord before cutting it off. Hair dryers typically pull a 1200-2000 Watt "load", meaning 1.2 to 2.0kW. Your EVSE will pull a 2.88kW load on the cord (240V * 12A). Make sure the cord is not coiled, then run the hair dryer on high heat, high fan settings for a few hours. This will approximate what the EVSE will draw on the circuit. If the cord gets too hot to comfortably touch, or this trips the circuit breaker, the cord may be undersized. If it is just warm to the touch, you are good to go.

Because this would tend to be unsafe for many 120V devices, take time to label things "For EV Charging Only" or find a solution to "lock" the adapter to the OEM cord. Ideally the "locking" mechanism would not be permanent (not epoxy, shrink wrap, tape) because if you ever need to use a 120V outlet with the OEM cord, you want to be able to unplug the adapter. For this reason, something like the shield @ga2500ev linked above would work well.
 
#16 ·
JMHO, but those huge four-wire plugs and receptacles are wild overkill for this application. If one is installing a new dedicated line, a NEMA 6-30 is small, inexpensive and rated at 250v-30 amps.

However, if one intends to use an existing dryer or other receptacle, naturally the plug should match. Just be aware many older homes/garages still have the three-wire/prong receptacles.

jack vines
 
#17 ·
Be really sure that neither a visiting in-law or a mechanic doing a job for you can accidentally plug a 120V tool into a 240 volt outlet that looks like a 120V outlet. You are not going to remember that it's visible on the wall of the garage the day someone does this. I'm not haranguing you not to do this, only to make sure that (for example) the unused outlet is sealed shut, and the regular plug is ty-wrapped in, at least. Your spouse might try to vacuum french fries out of the SUV, for example! (sorry, American joke.)

Unrelated, you may find that you'd much rather charge at 24 amps, using ... say, a Canadian Grizzl-E EVSE .... instead of waiting twice as long for the OEM device to do the job, even at 240 volts. It depends on how often you charge, and what time you get home from work-among other things.
 
#18 ·
Thanks to all.

1. Right now our panel is full -- we may be doing something about that down the line, but for now anyway a new dedicated circuit to get 24A is not on the cards.

2.The posts re the DIY adapter have stiffened my spine (thanks Rob and ga2500ev and others on this front) . I am going to take a shot at wiring an extension cord to a 14-30 adapter over the weekend.

3. I will ensure that the connection is locked out so that nobody plugs the blender into the 240V outlet.

EL
 
#21 ·
1. Right now our panel is full -- we may be doing something about that down the line, but for now anyway a new dedicated circuit to get 24A is not on the cards.
I was in similar situation, with a panel on the other end of the property and no easy way to run wires. I found an unused dedicated 120v circuit that I was able to convert to 240v. I bought an inexpensive 16a charger and can go from near empty to almost full overnight. It's perfectly within code and safe to do this.
 
#19 ·
@Rime : Go for it. It's not hard. Think of it like a hose for each individual wire. The electricity needs to flow down the same hose. Purists would be all over what I just said...but I think it's an easy metaphor. The instructions from ARob were excellent. If you're ever re-done something like a table lamp then you've got it. Though these days things are disposable and no one repairs stuff anymore :)
 
#26 ·
There is only 1 good reason to buy another EVSE... if you plan to travel and want to have more options to charge at 32A (meaning find a NEMA 14-50 receptacle at RV sites). This was the only reason I got my 32A EVSE vs sticking with my stock 12A EVSE...
 
#27 ·
That particular adapter is quite expensive. I bought this one from a shop that specializes in EV related hardware and it's much cheaper. They can also make any variation of it that you might need. I used mine for several months before I bought a 32 amp EVSE and I still carry it along with the Chevy EVSE inside the car, just in case.

 
#29 ·
I just leave my adapter connected to my charger it does not stay plugged into the wall with out the charger.

can't plug anything in to if if it is heatshrinked on the end of my charger cord. If I do need to plug into 120, I just remove the shrink wrap.
 
#32 ·
No worries. This argument predates you. There are some folks that simply do not feel fulfilled unless they spend the maximum amount of money in order to get the maximum amount of charging speed with the perceived maximum amount of safety whether or not they need it. And since they are fulfilled by that condition, they promote it to anyone who listens.

I'm guilty of the opposite. One of the reasons I keep discussing the OEM EVSE with it's 240V operation with adapters is that many novices have it drilled into their heads that they must install an L2 EVSE in order to use their EV. So, often they never consider the fact that it may not be necessary. That a $30 adapter and an existing 240V line may cover almost all of their charging needs. So, I do the opposite and at least present the possibility of other options than running a new 50-amp 240V and installing a 32-40 amp EVSE when the one that comes with the car is perfectly serviceable.

I don't mind either presentation. We should present all the facts and let people choose for themselves based on their personal circumstances. I just get a bit annoyed with the suggestion that a 1 ft extension adapter is inherently unsafe. It's the reason that I keep posting the lockout video which is perfectly capable of protecting the adapter from misuse.

ga2500ev
 
#33 ·
I hear ya, GA2500ev.

I checked my adapter and cable the first time I used it. Just to be sure and so I could sleep at night. The sign that the adapter is inadequate would be Heat. I checked all cables and adapters for heat with an IR thermometer. everything was identical temp as the ambient temp in the garage. was charging from 40% to 80% with the stock charger and max amp setting. ( Car automatically detected that I had 220v and would not let me change it). No issues. I have zero concern. That being said That setup is now in my trunk.

I wish I would have seen the thread about the 240v with stock adapter, It most certainly would have met my needs. But Now I have a charge point installed and I am not going to uninstall it.
 
#35 · (Edited)
The reason these stock EVSE units are dual voltage is so that they can use them in countries where 120v Does not exist. (different plug same internals)

They will only provide 12amps at 220/240v (3KW) But will charge faster than 120v at 12amps (approx. 11 miles per hour vs 6 miles per hour at the 12amp 120v setting)

Yes they are not the same as getting a 24amp charger. I don't remember anyone here ever saying that.
 
#36 ·
The reason these stock EVSE units are dual voltage is so that they can use them in countries where 120v Does not exist. (different plug same internals)

They will only provide 15amps at 220/240v But will charge faster than 120v at 15amps (approx. 11 miles per hour vs 6 miles per hour at the 12amp 120v setting)

Yes they are not the same as getting a 24amp charger. I don't remember anyone here ever saying that.
ga2500ev said:
I've designed an EVSE. Ended up buying a used unit before I implemented it. I'm well aware how they work.

Everything you have specified about that $180 unit applies to the unit that comes with there car
 
#40 · (Edited)
The only fact I was trying to make and encourage is that the stock EVSE is a stop gap solution for people that need more that 6 miles per hour charging but do not necessarily need more than 11 miles per hour and has a 220v / 240v outlet in there garage already.
it is perfectly safe to use those adapters for 12 amps. if you start plugging other things in that require more amperage all bets are off.

That was my situation.
 
#44 ·
So you see @Rime , yes indeed this discussion has come up frequently. And then discussion ensues of all the finer points of semantics. I will make one myself when the car is out of warranty. But that's me. I'm delighted that those that have come before have figured this stuff out. That's why there's such a thing as enthusiast sites like this.
It does suck that Nissan can provide an EVSE that comes with the adaptor but ChEV didn't. Boring old certified 120V.

Stock EVSE - 8A 120V certified
Stock EVSE - 12A 120V certified
Stock EVSE - 12A 240V - not certified but works. Adapt it to any 2-phase 240V outlet from 15A up to 50A.