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Discussion starter · #21 ·
New battery should not have software 80% limit. The software was to detect a potential fault in existing batteries, in part so GM wouldn't have to replace them.
Correct. My new battery was not locked. It was destined as a replacement for someone who didn't show up. I did and I got it.

Paul
 
Is it safe to say if the Bolt was purchased with the 80% limitation the battery pack was not replaced? Thxs for sharing
Most likely. It's possible that the wrong software was applied after a battery replacement (there have been reports of that happening). The best way to determine whether the battery has been replaced is to use the VIN number and follow the instructions from @balazer 's guide:
 
I don't pretend to understand the ins and outs of the EV batteries, but I do need some help. I had a PHEV and traded it in for a 22 Bolt EUV Premier. $17k out the door, 29,000 miles. I then noticed that the same dealership has a 2020 Nissan Leaf SV plus for $12,500. It doesn't qualify for the tax credit but it's substantially cheaper. It has 41,000 mi on it. I tend to use a car for driving just around town with maybe one or two longer trips a year. I live in Baltimore. I really enjoy driving the bolt. I know some people consider that the leaf is more comfortable, but for me I actually prefer driving the bolt. However, the difference in savings is so big that I'm really second guessing my choice. Based on your research, it sounds as though the bolt may be the better choice in terms of the battery. Is this the case? Or would the Leaf be just fine? Thank you!!
 
I tend to use a car for driving just around town with maybe one or two longer trips a year. I

Based on your research, it sounds as though the bolt may be the better choice in terms of the battery. Is this the case? Or would the Leaf be just fine? Thank you!!
Bolt is definitely the better choice in terms of battery life. If you are looking for a strictly around town second EV, the Leaf could work.

At least in Virginia, CHAdeMO chargers have gone away, or broken without repair, this summer, so road trips seem doubtful.
 
Bolt is definitely the better choice in terms of battery life. If you are looking for a strictly around town second EV, the Leaf could work.

At least in Virginia, CHAdeMO chargers have gone away, or broken without repair, this summer, so road trips seem doubtful.
I'm in Maryland and am a single mom so this would be the only car for my son and I....sounds like the Bolt is the way to go.
 
...22 Bolt EUV Premier. $17k out the door, 29,000 miles...2020 Nissan Leaf SV plus for $12,500...
So the 2020 Leaf is better than the original Leaf with severe battery issues, and it would still be within the 8 year / 100,000 mile battery warranty. You can check a 2020 Nissan Leaf battery's "state of health" on the display:

The main drawbacks will be winter range and fast charging. If you are strictly using the car for around town, and always charging at home, the Leaf can work. If you ever need to use a public fast charging station, or need to drive more than 100 miles in subzero temperatures, you'll run into the Leaf's limitations. (Not that the Bolt is great in subzero temperatures either, but it's better than the Leaf and would have a lot more public charging options if you're running low.)

Other considerations are the difference in mileage and warranty remaining, and other aspects of the cars, like wear and tear on the non-EV stuff - suspension, brakes, body, interior, etc.

Obviously, this is a Bolt forum so most people here chose to buy a Bolt. But the Leaf can work and has worked for many EV owners, depending on their circumstances.
 
I’ve tracked battery degradation in the EVs we’ve driven during the past decade. The short answer is that our Nissan Leaf lost a lot, our Chevy Bolts not so much.

I keep detailed logs of our EVs. Beginning with a Nissan Leaf through two Chevy Bolts, I’ve recorded more than a dozen different parameters each time the car is charged. I do this so I can authoritatively answer questions from newbies to EVs and those considering an EV what kind of battery degradation they can expect.

Our 2015 Leaf suffered serious battery degradation in the heat of Bakersfield, California summers where temperatures above 110 F (44 C) are not uncommon. Consequently, the car’s limited range was reduced even further after three years. The Leaf lost 17% of its capacity in only 17,000 miles of travel, leaving us with a piddly 19 kWh when we returned the car to Nissan.

Since switching to the Bolts, we’ve traveled nearly 70,000 miles on three different batteries. Each battery has lost about 5% of its capacity over 20,000 to 30,000 miles. Importantly, this modest capacity loss hasn’t affected how we use the cars or how far we can drive them.

Disclosure: I worked for GM’s Delco-Remy Division 1968-1970 as a cooperative engineering student. I was a member of UAW Local 1981 until the National Writers Union left the UAW in May 2020. The Chevy Bolt is assembled by UAW Local 5960.

Nevertheless, I continue to track the Bolt’s performance. I enter the data on a paper record and then later enter the data into a spreadsheet.

90% of my charging is done at home, and I always charge to 100% when I am not on the road. My reasoning is that most EV drivers will do likewise. Most people will not make any effort to extend the battery’s life. Instead, they will treat the EV much the same as the gasser they replaced it with. They’ll simply “fill it up” and that’s what I am trying to replicate.

Here’s a list of the previous articles I’ve written on this topic.
After 20,000 miles on the new battery, Torque Pro is showing Bat Cap Est of 56.5 kWh and Bat Cap Raw Ah of 176.6 following the last charge. Since newly installed the battery’s Ah capacity has declined 9%. The calculated capacity has declined about 5%.
In this version of the chart, I’ve dropped the Bat Cap Est as it’s determined directly by the Raw Ah capacity. This has eliminated some of clutter in the chart making the trends easier to see.

What’s noteworthy is that the calculated capacity has only declined 5%. The calculated capacity is what we use to actually drive the car. That’s the number of kWh the car believes it has to work with.

Capacity Of 2020 Chevy Bolt With New Battery At 20000 Miles


Percent Used Method to Calculate Battery Capacity
We can infer battery capacity by knowing how much of the battery was used for so many kWh consumed between full charges. For example, if on a full charge, we consumed 31.2 kWh and arrived home with 45.9% State-of-Charge. The battery’s calculated capacity is 57.7 kWh.

31.2 kWh/(1-0.459) = 57.7 kWh

This is the battery’s calculated capacity remaining. It’s a good measure of how much battery capacity you have to work with. As noted above, the calculated battery capacity has declined about 5% over 20,000 miles.

After 20,000 miles, the new battery has approximately 60 kWh of usable capacity. The average efficiency of the Bolt during this period is 4.3 kWh/mile. The remaining usable capacity at the average efficiency I’ve measured provides an approximate range of 258 miles after 20,000 miles of use. This is roughly comparable to the EPA estimated range of 259 miles when the battery was new.
I don't know which of the three levels is supposed to be 258 with a 100% charge, but I would assume the max. My 2020 with the original battery but only 21,5k miles max miles gauge shows over 300 when charged to 93%. Of course it won't actually go that, but I seriously doubt it would go 258 miles when new.
 
capacity, and estimated miles are not the same thing. estimated miles (guess-o-meter)
is simply a formula used based on past performance recorded in the software.
it can be very accurate, or vary wildly, depending on driving conditions.
capacity is how much energy the battery is capable of storing. that energy can only provide as many miles as conditions allow.
 
I don't know which of the three levels is supposed to be 258 with a 100% charge, but I would assume the max. My 2020 with the original battery but only 21,5k miles max miles gauge shows over 300 when charged to 93%. Of course it won't actually go that, but I seriously doubt it would go 258 miles when new.
As @bisco pointed out, those GOM predictions have very little to do with the battery's capacity. Read the link below that every member ought to read.

https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/new-owner-psa-—-the-range-display-and-your-bolts-battery.39283/
 
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