[Martin D]

My Sparky installed all my kitch. devices that way , said it was present ( current ? ) thought safer , lots of thin metal kitchen ware that could make a circuit if contacted with the blades of a loosely connected plug ... not possible w/U-ground pin up blocking contact ... sounds right to me ...

Ok. Many people in construction have a personal touch. Some make sense, some are just a personal touch. I am trying to imagine how having a ground above would stop anything other than a ‘guillotine knife’ tipping over, sliding down the backsplash and landing exactly on the ground blade in the outlet (?)

As a retired tile contractor, I will say that personal touch/interpretation is best avoided. As soon as anything does not follow the norm, it opens one up to being asked/forced to redo it in the normal way.

 

[Martin D]

Interesting; most of you have the more expensive NEMA 14-50 round 4-wire setup; separate neutral and ground. My utility, the installer and the city inspector all told me the NEMA 10-50 flat 3-wire and plug; no neutral, are much less expensive and meets code for an ESVE.

Some internet sites state: I asked about this and was told, "Well, that's BS logic. There's no need for a 14-50 on a dedicated ESVE line with no 115-volt tap."

jack vines

Not an electrician, just a general and tile contractor (retired).

FWIW, all separate ground wire is redundant. I will always err on the side of caution and redundancy, and specifically when all those volts and amps are looking at fresh meat to go to ground. I used 4-wire and to H with both code and price.

But that’s just my philosophy 😉

 

[Packard V8]

Interesting; most of you have the more expensive NEMA 14-50 round 4-wire setup; separate neutral and ground. My utility, the installer and the city inspector all told me the NEMA 6-50 flat 3-wire and plug; no neutral, are much less expensive and meets code for an ESVE.

Some internet sites state: I asked about this and was told, "Well, that's BS logic. There's no need for a 14-50 on a dedicated ESVE line with no 115-volt tap."

jack vines

EDIT - I just confirmed ours is actually a 6-50 and is mounted SIDEWAYS.

jv

 

[TimSFL]

I have not lost any sleep allowing my EVSE to hang in there. It was made to hang in there.
But the stock EVSE screw holes are made to hang up as per OP. So I guess there is some justified concern here. As the plastic is kinda thin.

 

[BobBolt]

Interesting; most of you have the more expensive NEMA 14-50 round 4-wire setup; separate neutral and ground. My utility, the installer and the city inspector all told me the NEMA 10-50 flat 3-wire and plug; no neutral, are much less expensive and meets code for an ESVE.

Some internet sites state: I asked about this and was told, "Well, that's BS logic. There's no need for a 14-50 on a dedicated ESVE line with no 115-volt tap."

jack vines

Agree and not sure why GM chose the 14-50 as the standard install.
Most around these parts actually install the 6-50P which is a standard welder receptacle since you do not need the 4 wire setup with an EVSE or they simply hardwire.
It also can make the install considerably cheaper to go with the 3 wire versus 4 wire run....if you don't need the 120.
My outdoor EVSE receptacle is a 14-50 with a 4 wire connection because I am an RV guy and need the two 120V circuits for the motorhome when plugged in.
The indoor EVSE receptacle is a 6-50 welder plug because only the EVSE uses that one and I felt down the road there might be more use for a welder in the garage than an RV style plug.
Lastly I could have hardwired the indoor unit but our code says I would have to provide a disconnect and the receptacle serves that purpose so it was just easier.

 

[GregBrew]

You also often find a standard 120v outlet mounted upside down if it's connected to a wall switch, rather than being hot at all times. I don't think it's a requirement, but I've seen it numerous times in a multitude of buildings.

It allows one to easily figure out which outlet is controlled by the switch. It's the upside down one.

 

[Martin D]

Ok, since this is such a complex problem, the only answer is to either turn the house upside down, or move it to the Southern Hemisphere.

Real world existential threats in the 21st century of whataboutism. Figure it out, it’s not rocket science…

 

[Bolt2019]

How about one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55215-18-PowerGrip-Extender/dp/B000V2R7KI/ref=sr_1_44

 

[BobBolt]

Ok, since this is such a complex problem, the only answer is to either turn the house upside down, or move it to the Southern Hemisphere.

Real world existential threats in the 21st century of whataboutism. Figure it out, it’s not rocket science…

Agreed, rotate the receptacle in the box for whatever orientation you would like. Same as I had to do.

 

[GregBrew]

Agreed, rotate the receptacle in the box for whatever orientation you would like. Same as I had to do.

Me, too.

 

[atc98092]

It allows one to easily figure out which outlet is controlled by the switch. It's the upside down one.

Yep, I knew the reason why. Just pointing out that it is a common practice.

 

[jefro]

Maybe mount evse only 90 degree.

 

[Martin D]

Maybe mount evse only 90 degree.

Place it 90 degrees in the basement under the cargo area, like the EV version of a spare tire. The OEM is perfect for that.

Then buy a real wall mount evse. Seems like a win-win.

 

[Lite2]

My Qmerit guy just oriented my outlet to the way I had my EVSE cord coming at it, pigtail pointing down, happy camper..
Outdoor outlet BTW.

 

[gbeddow]

My Qmerit guy just oriented my outlet to the way I had my EVSE cord coming at it, pigtail pointing down, happy camper..
Outdoor outlet BTW.

Same experience here about a year ago. All good.

 

[poor.todd]

okay

 

[EV Powertrain Engineer]

OP, can you hang the evse and put a cable clamp on both the plug end pigtail and the cable just below the hanging evse?

That’s all I have. Good luck 👍

Hey, that’s a great idea! I assume as long as the cable clamp can support the weight of the unit,there would be no tension on the input cord.

 

[ga2500ev]

Interesting; most of you have the more expensive NEMA 14-50 round 4-wire setup; separate neutral and ground. My utility, the installer and the city inspector all told me the NEMA 10-50 flat 3-wire and plug; no neutral, are much less expensive and meets code for an ESVE.

Some internet sites state: I asked about this and was told, "Well, that's BS logic. There's no need for a 14-50 on a dedicated ESVE line with no 115-volt tap."

jack vines

There is no need for a 14-50. It's just become a defacto standard because that's the plugs that are in all RV parks. So, EVSE manufacturers matched to that plug.

EVSEs should have standardized on 6/30-6-50s. It's then clear that only 3 wires are required, and one of them is a safety ground. But alas, it's not so.

ga2500ev

 

[ElectricSlide]

So I’m looking at my NEMA 14-50 wall plug and it is upside down. That is understandable since the wiring was run through my attic to reach my garage, but the Dual Charging Cord from Chevy has too short of input cord to bend the cord to allow mounting the unit right side up and still respect the 7” min bend radius!

The keyhole shaped mounting holes only allow the charging unit to be mounted one way up! Of course, I could change the electrical outlet orientation, but there is not enough extra wire in the attic to do this. How have others addressed this issue?

Another option (it actually supplies 40A/9kW to a ‘22 BoltEV):

 

[EV Powertrain Engineer]

What do you mean by "input side cable"? I think the ClipperCreek's NEMA 14-50 cable portion is an abysmal 6 inches long. This seems to be the norm with EVSEs! Although the picture of the Grizzl-E above seems to show a slightly longer NEMA 14-50 cable.

I’m talking about the Chevy dual level charger from the dealer. It is a plug-in version. It has a very short cable on the input side. Maybe 6” long too, at most!