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Ran a 12v power supply to the rear hatch

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1.5K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  mahlerrd  
#1 ·
Before I get into this install let me just say that this is probably not the most professional way to do this. I would say it’s somewhere between a hack job and a clean install. My goal was to avoid tapping into anything and have a standalone cable that could be removed somewhat easily. Use this thread as a starting point and if you have any suggestions on how to do this better please comment.

I ran the cable externally along the bottom of the car using a plastic wire loom to keep it protected. After looking under the hood with a flashlight I noticed a pretty large space on the passenger side behind the front passenger coolant tank that I decided to run the cable down. I straightened a coat hanger and put it through the gap, taped the wire to the end and pulled it through. Zip tied the wire in place and made sure the hood closes properly
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next I fed the cable through the gap up and over the suspension arm and below the drive axle to make sure that it wouldn’t make contact with any moving or rotating parts. I zip tied the cable to the holes in the underside of the car. It helped a lot to bend the zip ties into a J shape and feed it through the holes.
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for the rear I ran the wire through the space above the axle and suspension. In the floor of the cargo space there was a hole when I purchased the car but I think it had a drain or vent plug originally. I used the hole to pull the wire into the back and then fed it through the larger openings below the hatch on the inside to keep it out of the way. I then sealed everything off with hvac grade aluminum mastic tape. (Pictures in the comments)
 
#5 · (Edited)
The electric fridge has two settings. One is eco and other full blast. I only use full blast and battery might last 48 hours or more in 90 degrees. Recharge takes an hour or less.

Tesla has port that will run parked. That is why I don't run wire to dash in bolt. We have pulled cord accidentally when using front port.
 
#10 ·
I've done similar setups over the years. As noted, watch for things that move and things that get hot. Use rubber grommets when you pass through sheet metal. Use larger wire as you get voltage drop with distance on 12V. Use as small a fuse as practical. Not sure if that is split loom of "unsplit" which I would prefer if exposed to the elements. You can also buy armored cables for not much $