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:)
I got my antenna cable & 75 ohm resistor in today.
Tomorrow I will try that and replacing the fuse and see how that works.
The misses didn't like the red "no-gps" symbol.
Well, do let us know how tricky it is getting the data connector off. I might try it...I never had a car with a compass but I kinda liked it.
 
Well, do let us know how tricky it is getting the data connector off. I might try it...I never had a car with a compass but I kinda liked it.
Thank you, it seems I needed that challenge.
The tricky part is that you need to pull out a part of the original plug in order to be able to push down the lever to release it from the onstar unit.
Image

First pull the red part in the direction of the red arrow. Grab it on both sides and wiggle.
Then push the lever ( blue arrow) and the connector will come out real easy!
You can see the red "push protection" sticking out a bit in this photo with the dummy antenna installed:

Image

Inserted the F02 fuse again.
The compass said "-CAL-" for a minute and after I drove a few blocks it showed different readings again but I am not sure yet if it is showing the correct reading. It sure was super slow in changing.
Will have to check on a upcoming drive to verify.
The onstar leds are back on, but one is constantly red:
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Gps in top right corner of entertainment screen is back but isn't happy
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Took me less than 30 minutes to get it done.
And it was late, dark, cold & windy ;)
 
The compass said "-CAL-" for a minute and after I drove a few blocks it showed different readings again but I am not sure yet if it is showing the correct reading. It sure was super slow in changing.
Will have to check on a upcoming drive to verify.
Ran a few errands today and it seems the compass was responding as expected again.
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
all the "it doesn't matter because (x) and (y) already happen" don't answer the question, they divert from it. The question is not whether someone can or whether it makes a difference. The question was "how to". This is a common problem with the internet generation. The mindset of "I have nothing useful to contribute to the question asked, but I need to tell you my opinion about a related aspect." Learn to suppress your ego enough to limit contributions to the topic asked rather than tangents not asked.
 
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With the antenna cable removed, 50ohm terminator installed :
  • i no longer get reports when my Bolt finishes charging to the set max level.
  • I had set my home charging to 80%, anywhere else 100%. Next day it was charged to 100%, couldn't recognize home location because of lacking GPS signal.
  • No longer are able to control my Bolt with the Chevy app
  • Recurrent does still get the odometer readings. Must be using home wifi when parked there to phone home.
Image

No charging level information available for recurrent:
Image
 
With the antenna cable removed, 75ohm terminator installed :
  • i no longer get reports when my Bolt finishes charging to the set max level.
  • I had set my home charging to 80%, anywhere else 100%. Next day it was charged to 100%, couldn't recognize home location because of lacking GPS signal.
  • No longer are able to control my Bolt with the Chevy app
  • Recurrent does still get the odometer readings. Must be using home wifi when parked there to phone home.
View attachment 64823
No charging level information available for recurrent:
View attachment 64826
Do you mind sharing where you bought the 75ohm terminator? I'm only seeing 50ohm terminators and there have been reports that the signal can still get through with a 50ohm terminator.
 
Do you mind sharing where you bought the 75ohm terminator? I'm only seeing 50ohm terminators and there have been reports that the signal can still get through with a 50ohm terminator.
I checked and bought/installed a 50 Ohm Terminator, not a 75 Ohm. Sorry for the miscommunication!
 
Just found this in my renewed insurance letter:
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Disclaimer:
Me & Wife never had a speeding ticket or anything else driving related like dui or something.
My wife, less than 3 years ago, did back in to another car from standstill, under $1000 damage.

I asked for quotes from 2 other insurance companies and they were all the same : about $175/month for our 2023 EUV premier which is basically what I am paying now at Mercury insurance.
 
Note: while poking around, i realized, you can access the TCU wiring from within the glove compartment as well, by sticking your hand in, and to the left, you can feel where the 3 wires are connected to the unit. this means you can disable the unit without dissembling the car. you will need to know where to feel, you cant just go ripping out wires. but if you use an endoscope, you can get a visual and guide you in pulling the wires, then the entire procedure can be done from within the glove compartment, making this a completely non-invasive procedure.

Good luck!!
I tried to open the glove box entirely, but felt some resistance. Can it be pulled open to where it exposed the area behind the box?
 
Anything electronic you use today that is communicating either using cell technology or the internet is collecting and transmitting data on you whether you know it or not. Your cell phone, computer, video game systems, some smart TVs even, anything that saves stuff to the Cloud, your car is just one part of a much bigger problem.
 
Thanks, I was aware of all the nefarious things that are done to track me/ us and have taken steps to minimize the data collecting. I did find a site that showed me what and how to disable the tracking on my Bolt. Need to order an antenna terminator to completely block the signal transmission ....
This is the site I viewed, perfect for what I needed
 
Here is a basic overview of the steps to disable the OnStar module. This guide is my personal journey on how I disabled the OnStar module. Obviously I take no responsibly for any damage you do to your car, and modifying your car in any way may void your warranty.

OnStar uses a Telematics Control Module manufactured by LG, model TTA20ANEBN . it controls the signals for 4gLTE as well as GPS.

The first step is to disable the battery. Simply disconnect the negative terminal. If you dont know how to do this, then stop now.

Next move the steering wheel as far down as it can go.

Begin removing the trim around the push start button. You can do this by hand, start from the bottom and pull gently.
View attachment 58284

Once it starts to come away, start disconnecting the clips where the trim meets the dash
View attachment 58285

It is a bit tricky to get free. You may need to use a curved tool like this View attachment 58287
to release the catch before you begin to pull away.

Once the trim has been pulled away a a bit, you will see two screws like this
View attachment 58288

Remove those. I think its 7mm hex

There are two more hidden screws which can be accesses by removing the glove compartment
View attachment 58290
and reaching up into the cavity into the approximate location indicated in the image.
View attachment 58289

They are 7mm hex as well. You can find them by feeling around, or use an endoscope camera.

Once those 4 screws are out, begin pulling gently by hand under the screen, at the silver trim. It should pop out slightly. Then insert a flathead screwdriver at the rightmost part of the trim
View attachment 58291

and start pulling gently away. work your way downward around the trim. you dont need any tools, it can be done by hand. Once the lower part is free, pull on that gently to release the clips on the upper part (near the ac vents)

Finally, the entire screen assembly with the black piano gloss trim should pop off. This is your view.
View attachment 58293
Thanks bolty_guy. Your instructions were spot-on and it only took me 20 or 30 minutes to pull that privacy-violating piece of junk out of the dash today. It would have been hard without knowing those screw locations.
 
I have completed the install per BiggRanger's Imgur guide ( ). I also purchased some aluminized tubing material (https://www.amazon.com/Team-Performance-Aluminized-Sleeving-Protection/dp/B07W7NSDTJ/?psc=1) to protect the whole cable assembly and terminator. After I installed it, I plugged the F02 fuse back in (Bolt EV 2023), and got a red OnStar light and had GPS back with compass directions. After some driving, I did notice that there was some signal bars present on the car (initially there were no bars). A few days later, I opened the glove box access back up and shifted the aluminized material up and over to cover the plug end of the cable that I purchased assuming their might be some RF leakage from the ending. Same issue, with initially no bars upon quick startup and test, but with some driving there are bars that come back.

At this point, I'm wondering if I need to better protect RF leakage on the OnStar module itself. Anyone else have luck with blocking RF leakage? Where do I need to add blocking material? Thanks!
 
When you get the red onstar LED, it means there is no communication possible.
The bars you see, could they be from your paired phone ?
Switch off your phone and you should see no bars.
 
Or the cellular bars may come thru the GPS/Cell antenna.
OnStar Description and Operation (UE1)
Telematics Communication Interface Control Module
...
The module sends and receives all cellular communications over two cellular antennas and cellular antenna coax cables.
The OnStar TCP system has two antenna inputs, a primary cellular signal and a combined GPS/secondary cellular signal.
 
With just 1 antenna disconnected from the Onstar unit and the 50 Ohm resistor installed, i am never getting any reply from the app.
EG: when I try to remotely lock my Bolt: it is parked near the house and has WiFI reception

Image

Image


But the command never reaches the Bolt for some reason.
I put the dummy load on the antenna early Jan 2024 and the app shows last contact like this:
Image

So it seems that 2nd cellular system isn't used it seems
 
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