I got teh etrailer 1-1/2" and am happy with it. THe only 2" i know of is curtiss and requires you to remove the rear bumper fascia... the etrailer has a diagonal brace that I think is a better design.

 

I'm very happy with the Torklift EcoHitch. I drove to their centre in Kent WA to have it installed so I can't give you a firsthand account of how easy it is, but:

- I've seen posts from others saying that it's pretty easy to install, and:

- One of the things I like about TorkLift is that they post videos of their techs installing the hitch, and that gives you a pretty good idea of how to do it. You can find the one for the Bolt here: https://torkliftcentral.com/2017-chevy-bolt-ecohitch

 

I installed a Torklift Ecohitch myself. Took me a little bit of time but the instructions are pretty spot on - the only trickiness I encountered
* Pulling out the bumper from the sides (where plastic tabs hold it in)
* Misplacing the power connection when reinstalling the bumper (this was minor)
* Redoing the waterproof rubber seal along the edge at the end. Take note of how this looks before you begin.
Fit was perfect, looks like they've corrected the early screw slots misalignment.

While it has great clearance and I'm happy with it, https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/154...g/forum/154-what-did-you-do-your-chevy-bolt-ev-today/27450-hitch-bike-rack.html has some discussion on why it may not be as good for towing (vs carrying) as the Draw-Tite. The latter is a 1.25" but is rated at 200/2000.

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/121-towing/4618-trailer-hitch.html is another thread on the topic.

 

Just installed the Eco Hitch on my 2019 Bolt. Sounds like I had nearly the same issues you did, including the power connection. But what was the waterproof rubber seal are you talking about? right below the hatch? I didn't notice any issues. Hope I didn't just miss something. Very happy with how clean it is. Also would have cost me more to go with a 1 1/4 mount as I would have needed a new bike rack (not willing to use a 1 1/4 to 2" attachment which gives more slop and sticks out further).

 

Ditto on Torklift. Excellent instructions, within scope of self-confident and slightly competent DIYer. Wait on beer until done; some coordination is required. A helper is needed for about 5 minutes twice during the job.

If you DIY, be sure to have a nice soft landing spot for bumper fascia. Pavement would make a mess of it.

Note that the Torklift hardware is rated for 2,000 lbs towing capacity but the studs it attaches to are certainly not up to that. It's good for bike racks, cargo platform etc. But the 2" really helps with stability of those.

 

I researched this for my Prius, and the only hitch available that hides behind the bumper was from Torklift.

They are like 2.5x more expensive than other hitches, but the only true "hidden" hitch option I could find. Hate to pay so much just to make a cleaner install, but I was happy with mine regardless. I waited for a sale to buy mine, which made it something like only 2x more expensive than other hitches. Maybe it was a Black Friday sale; I don't remember. They don't have sales often.

 

Maybe related to redpoint5's observation on price, the one other thing I'll say about the Torklift hitches is that they're built on a Victorian scale, like something from a battleship. Maybe they'll f--k up the collapse rate of the car in a crash but it still feels pretty good attaching one inside of the collision bumper.

The weight-conscious may wish to look at another brand.

 

After looking over the options and taking cost into account I settled on the following:

1X Draw-Tite Sportframe Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4" $107.97
2X Draw-Tite Drawbar for 1-1/4" Hitch - 2-1/8" Rise, 2-3/4" Drop - 6-5/8" Long ($23.95 each) $47.90
1X Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with 4 Pole Trailer Connector (Includes Install Kit) $68.74
1X etrailer.com Rubber Hitch Cover for 1-1/4" Trailer Hitches $4.32
1X 1-7/8" Hitch Ball - 3/4" Diameter x 1-9/16" Long Shank - Chrome - 2000 lbs $7.67
1X 2" Hitch Ball - 3/4" Diameter x 1-9/16" Long Shank - Chrome - 3,500 lbs $12.01

All this for the same cost of just the receiver hitch if I stuck to the 2" receiver idea.

Later,

Keith

 

After looking over the options and taking cost into account I settled on the following:

1X Draw-Tite Sportframe Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4" $107.97
2X Draw-Tite Drawbar for 1-1/4" Hitch - 2-1/8" Rise, 2-3/4" Drop - 6-5/8" Long ($23.95 each) $47.90
1X Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with 4 Pole Trailer Connector (Includes Install Kit) $68.74
1X etrailer.com Rubber Hitch Cover for 1-1/4" Trailer Hitches $4.32
1X 1-7/8" Hitch Ball - 3/4" Diameter x 1-9/16" Long Shank - Chrome - 2000 lbs $7.67
1X 2" Hitch Ball - 3/4" Diameter x 1-9/16" Long Shank - Chrome - 3,500 lbs $12.01

All this for the same cost of just the receiver hitch if I stuck to the 2" receiver idea.

Later,

Keith

BTW, the Draw-Tite 1.25" is rated for a 200# tongue weight. I installed mine myself in about two hours. It does require that you cut a "notch" in the rear fascia. It's easy with a utility knife. I'm very happy with mine.

$107 from eTrailer.

https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2017_Chevrolet_Bolt+EV.htm

 

I had the same issues as noted above: pulling the bumper fascia off without damaging the plastic clips (which aren’t visible until it is off), and not paying attention to where the power connection wire was sitting when reinstalling the fascia and trapping it between the aluminum bumper and the plastic fascia (this was a fairly minor inconvenience). I did break two of the clips holding the fascia on unfortunately :-( It doesn’t show and doesn’t affect finished fit, but the thought bothers me!

 

Bolt receiver hitch

I bought a DrawTite "17-18 Chevy Bolt Trailer Hitch Tow Receiver 24956 1" from Trailerjacks.com for $101 with free shipping. It's better than some others that hang down lower. It also comes with an installation video and instructional pdf. As part of my negotiations with the dealer, they installed it "free" and it'd been perfect so far. I use it to haul my trash cans up my long steep driveway (the device for this fits it the receiver), and for my bike rack. I'm a little nervous about hauling my 1500# boat out of the water.

 

I'm a little nervous about hauling my 1500# boat out of the water.

Pull 1500 lbs up a wet boat ramp with a front wheel drive car? It might work ....


If I were doing that I would take along a long towrope so anyone there with a pickup or SUV could provide a little assistance.

 

Those of you that installed a hitch that was not the TorkLift.. are you towing / attaching anything besides a bike carrier?

I am going to be getting a hitch, but most likely it will be the Tork because it is the only one with a real 2" hitch that can connect to a tow trailer. I need something that I can attach a 4x8 motorcycle folding trailer on. I know that towing a trailer with a 1-1/4" and using an adapter is a big nono, so just wondering.

 

I put on the 200# tongue-weight 1-1/4" Draw-tite hitch. Then I had the ends of my bike racks modified (for the smaller receiver) by a hitch installation shop via welding. I changed *them*, because I no longer have a vehicle with a 2" receiver. Why is an adapter a "no-no"?

 

I've never had a problem using a 3500 lb rated 1-1/4" hitch (rated 300 lb tongue weight) and towing at the 2k lb limit of my car and trailer. Photo

Modifying the bike rack sounds like a good solution.

 

I've never had a problem using a 3500 lb rated 1-1/4" hitch and towing at the 2k lb limit of my car and trailer. Photo

Where you using a 1 1/4" to 2" adapter to 2" ball or where you using a straight Class 2 hitch with a square 1 1/4"?

Using a hitch expander has alwasy been considered a no no. Again, can it be done? Sure. Should it. No.


If you have a straight hitch, with a 1 1/4 square with a 2 in ball, then that is fine. I am speaking of adapters that convert the 1 1/4 square to 2"

I mean, I can get a 2" ball to a 1 1/4 adapter, but would rather have a straight 2" hitch. Main reason I am looking at the torklift vs the others.

 

Hitches have a huge safety margin built in, and that's designed to account for all sorts of unforseen problems and user abuse.

A 1 1/4" hitch will easily handle a 4' x 8' trailer with a motorcycle, but I'd still go for a 2" because they are more common and that gives you extra headroom and safety should you want to pull something heavier.

My dad pulled 20k lbs with a class 3 receiver, and the trailer went into a fishtail because the excavator wasn't weight distributed properly. It slightly bent the solid steel pin, but the receiver held up.

I put a 2" on my Prius so that I could pull all the 2" things that were previously only pulled with my truck. Standardizing allows me to reduce the number of pins and balls I have to keep track of.

 

I just noticed an interesting article on new federal standards for tow rating. It's mostly about light trucks but includes autos, SUV's, anything with a tow rating.

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/towing/1502-sae-j2807-tow-tests-the-standard/

 

Stealth Hitches also offers a great hitch for the Bolt. It is detachable and required no drilling or welding to the vehicle.
You can get 2" receiver or 1 1/4" receiver.

https://stealthhitches.com/products/chevy-bolt-2017-present

 

Stealth Hitches also offers a great hitch for the Bolt. It is detachable and required no drilling or welding to the vehicle.
You can get 2" receiver or 1 1/4" receiver.

https://stealthhitches.com/products/chevy-bolt-2017-present

Four times the price of a Draw-Tite (~$125), which also requires no drilling or welding and has the same 200# tongue weight capacity on a 1.25" receiver. I installed mine in an hour.

For the extra $370, the Stealth offers the option of 1.25" or 2".

 

Bumping this to say that the Ecohitch option installed very well, other than being $300.


My only complaint is that there is no information on how tight to torque the 6 nuts that sandwich the hitch between the body and the bumper. I asked the manufacturer about this, and got this response:

Thank you for asking the following question:
What torque should the 6 nuts that hold the bumper and hitch to the main body of the car be tightened to? This is not given in the install video or the written instructions.

Answer:
We aren't supposed to give that spec out as only Chevy is an authority for that figure and it is subject to change. Best option would be to contact a Chevy dealer.

Has anyone done this and received an official answer? For now, I have them set to something I consider reasonable, but I'm surprised this is such sensitive information.

 

My only complaint is that there is no information on how tight to torque the 6 nuts that sandwich the hitch between the body and the bumper. I asked the manufacturer about this, and got this response:

Has anyone done this and received an official answer?

Just installed it myself and wondered the same thing. (Here's the video of my install if interested) Also found it interesting that in the etrailer install video, they also don't mention the torque value when they tighten the nuts. Here's that section. Wonder if it differs between model years. I'd be surprised, but there must be some reason they don't want numbers floating around.

 

Maybe snug plus 1/4 turn, that seems pretty standard.

If you know the bolt class and size, you can look up the torque specs online. If you're very concerned, you can use Locktite on the threads.

 

I am looking for a hitch with a 200 lb / 2000 lb capacity for pulling a small utility trailer. I have seen that some have installation issues, and some hang way down low...

Is there an option that is 2", tucked up tight to the bumper, and not a total pain in the butt to install?

Thanks,

Keith

2020 Chevrolet Bolt EV
306-X7359 by ecohitch
has the exactly those options
David