[SDW]

I did the Diode Dynamics mod but the Pots (dimmers) both failed within one week! They are only rated at 2 amps and are over rated at that. I had to pull them out and install a set of diodes and buck converters (DC to DC step downconverters, 12v to 6v, 12v to 9v would not dim tail lights). The Diode Dynamics PWM's are made in China (sticker says "assembled in the US", only their sticker is made in the US). Diode Dynamics said they do fail in Chevy Bolts, since it is under the 2 amp rating I assume they fail in many applications not just the Bolt/Bolt EUV. I tied the third brake light into the hatch tail lights using a set of diodes so the tail lights and brake lights would not feed voltage back into each other. I am an electronics tech so not everyone will be comfortable doing this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ZT24G7Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A28RD1UFMT03RB&th=1

 

[drdiesel1]

I did the Diode Dynamics mod but the Pots (dimmers) both failed within one week! They are only rated at two amps and are over rated at that. I had to pull them out and install a set of diodes and buck converters. P.S. the Diode Dynamics PWM's are made in China, only their sticker is made in the US. They said they do fail in Chevy Bolts. I tied the third brake light into the hatch tail lights using a set of diodes so they would not feed back into each other. I am an electronics tech so not everyone will be comfortable doing this. I have a short compressed video but it won't allow me to upload videos here.

Just post the link!

 

[SDW]

I mod my 2023 Bolt EUV LT tail light (on lift gate only), i follow somebody else post but instead of diodes i use:
" Diode Dynamics" Automotive PWM Dimmer With Bypass, i got from Amazon, its sold by pear and i use each dimmer for left and right tail lite on lift gate.
easy job if you have hands and eyes (not color blind).
You can access the wires by removing top plastic trim on lift gate.
The three wires you need to locate are: (i copy from someone post)

• Instruction and connection for dimmer self explanatory ones you read instruction and see picture:
• The brown/yellow stripe wire powering the 3rd brake light (connect 2 high power red wires)
• The gray/brown stripe, right tail light
• Purple/gray stripe, left tail light (it look to me purple/wight stripe), the are 2 the same color at big connector, choose the one opposite site from gray/brown wire.
• Run small wire to ground nut, 1.5-2 feet.
• Adjust tail light brightness (i dim to max).
• Each tail light draw 350mA so total 750mA

I you you know haw to solder wires its 1-hour job.
I wish i can post more picture, but they allow 10 only.
I am happy with this set up, but you do at yours own risk.
I dont encourage anybody to make changes this is illustration purpose only.
Sorry for not professional post, doing first time.
View attachment 48985
View attachment 48984
View attachment 48983
View attachment 48982
View attachment 48981
View attachment 48980
View attachment 48979
View attachment 48978
View attachment 48977
View attachment 48976

I mod my 2023 Bolt EUV LT tail light (on lift gate only), i follow somebody else post but instead of diodes i use:
" Diode Dynamics" Automotive PWM Dimmer With Bypass, i got from Amazon, its sold by pear and i use each dimmer for left and right tail lite on lift gate.
easy job if you have hands and eyes (not color blind).
You can access the wires by removing top plastic trim on lift gate.
The three wires you need to locate are: (i copy from someone post)

• Instruction and connection for dimmer self explanatory ones you read instruction and see picture:
• The brown/yellow stripe wire powering the 3rd brake light (connect 2 high power red wires)
• The gray/brown stripe, right tail light
• Purple/gray stripe, left tail light (it look to me purple/wight stripe), the are 2 the same color at big connector, choose the one opposite site from gray/brown wire.
• Run small wire to ground nut, 1.5-2 feet.
• Adjust tail light brightness (i dim to max).
• Each tail light draw 350mA so total 750mA

I you you know haw to solder wires its 1-hour job.
I wish i can post more picture, but they allow 10 only.
I am happy with this set up, but you do at yours own risk.
I dont encourage anybody to make changes this is illustration purpose only.
Sorry for not professional post, doing first time.
View attachment 48985
View attachment 48984
View attachment 48983
View attachment 48982
View attachment 48981
View attachment 48980
View attachment 48979
View attachment 48978
View attachment 48977
View attachment 48976

I did the Diode Dynamics mod but the Pots (dimmers) both failed within one week! They are only rated at 2 amps and are over rated at that. I had to pull them out and install a set of diodes and buck converters (DC to DC step downconverters, 12v to 6v, 12v to 9v would not dim tail lights). The Diode Dynamics PWM's are made in China (sticker says "assembled in the US", only their sticker is made in the US). Diode Dynamics said they do fail in Chevy Bolts, since it is under the 2 amp rating I assume they fail in many applications not just the Bolt/Bolt EUV. I tied the third brake light into the hatch tail lights using a set of diodes so the tail lights and brake lights would not feed voltage back into each other. I am an electronics tech so not everyone will be comfortable doing this. 12v to 6v Converter DC Step Down Buck Voltage Regulator DC Transformer Power Supply 3A 18W Waterproof Car Converter Compatible with Led Light Car Truck Boat

 

[drdiesel1]

I did the Diode Dynamics mod but the Pots (dimmers) both failed within one week! They are only rated at 2 amps and are over rated at that. I had to pull them out and install a set of diodes and buck converters (DC to DC step downconverters, 12v to 6v, 12v to 9v would not dim tail lights). The Diode Dynamics PWM's are made in China (sticker says "assembled in the US", only their sticker is made in the US). Diode Dynamics said they do fail in Chevy Bolts, since it is under the 2 amp rating I assume they fail in many applications not just the Bolt/Bolt EUV. I tied the third brake light into the hatch tail lights using a set of diodes so the tail lights and brake lights would not feed voltage back into each other. I am an electronics tech so not everyone will be comfortable doing this. 12v to 6v Converter DC Step Down Buck Voltage Regulator DC Transformer Power Supply 3A 18W Waterproof Car Converter Compatible with Led Light Car Truck Boat

Can you give the installation info and how it controls the lamps. Are you connecting the supply voltage to the brake output signal and having the 6 volts control the two inner lamps on the hatch ? Are you using two converters or one and splitting it ? Thanks!

 

[LoneR]

@SDW An installation video or wiring diagram, at the least, would help show and/or explain the operation you designed.

 

[Cruzincat50]

Maybe he can confirm this rough diagram, and maybe a p/n for the diodes (or min rating for current).

Cut the two wires going to the taillight assembly and solder this in between.

 

[SDW]

Can you give the installation info and how it controls the lamps. Are you connecting the supply voltage to the brake output signal and having the 6 volts control the two inner lamps on the hatch ? Are you using two converters or one and splitting it ? Thanks!

Answer is yes and use two, one on each light,

• Find the brown/yellow stripe wire powering the third brake light, tap into wire (don't cut it), solder in a diode positive side toward brown/yellow wire, negative side solder to both the (cut tail light sides not the feed sides) gray/brown and the purple/brown wires hatch tail lights.
• Next solder a ground wire from the ground bolt a couple of feet away on the passengers side to the black wires of the two buck converters next to the red wires, cut off the black ground wires next to the yellow wires (not used).
• Next solder the red wire of one of the buck converters to the live (hot feed) 12v side of the purple/gray stripe wire, left tail light, there are two that are the same color at the big connector, choose the one on the opposite side of gray/brown wire.
• Next solder a diode positive side towards yellow wire of the same buck converter, solder negative side of the diode towards the tail light side of the cut purple/gray wire.
• Next solder the red wire of the other buck converter to the live (hot feed) 12v side of the gray/brown wire right tail light
• Next solder a diode positive side towards yellow wire of the same buck converter, solder negative side of the diode towards the tail light side of the cut gray/brown wire.
• Done. I might help those out who are local to central WI.

 

[SDW]

Maybe he can confirm this rough diagram, and maybe a p/n for the diodes (or min rating for current).

View attachment 54040

Cut the two wires going to the taillight assembly and solder this in between.

Answer is yes,

• Find the brown/yellow stripe wire powering the third brake light, tap into wire (don't cut it), solder in a diode positive side toward brown/yellow wire, negative side solder to both the (cut tail light sides not the feed sides) gray/brown and the purple/brown wires hatch tail lights.
• Next solder a ground wire from the ground bolt a couple of feet away on the passengers side to the black wires of the two buck converters next to the red wires, cut off the black ground wires next to the yellow wires (not used).
• Next solder the red wire of one of the buck converters to the live (hot feed) 12v side of the purple/gray stripe wire, left tail light, there are two that are the same color at the big connector, choose the one on the opposite side of gray/brown wire.
• Next solder a diode positive side towards yellow wire of the same buck converter, solder negative side of the diode towards the tail light side of the cut purple/gray wire.
• Next solder the red wire of the other buck converter to the live (hot feed) 12v side of the gray/brown wire right tail light
• Next solder a diode positive side towards yellow wire of the same buck converter, solder negative side of the diode towards the tail light side of the cut gray/brown wire.
• Done!
• Might draw a schematic if I get time later, if your in Central WI. I might do it for you for a small fee.

Diodes,

(Pack of 20 Pieces) Chanzon 1N5822 Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 3A 40V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5822 IN5822 3 Amp 40 Volt: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

(Pack of 20 Pieces) Chanzon 1N5822 Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 3A 40V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5822 IN5822 3 Amp 40 Volt: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[SDW]

I mod my 2023 Bolt EUV LT tail light (on lift gate only), i follow somebody else post but instead of diodes i use:
" Diode Dynamics" Automotive PWM Dimmer With Bypass, i got from Amazon, its sold by pear and i use each dimmer for left and right tail lite on lift gate.
easy job if you have hands and eyes (not color blind).
You can access the wires by removing top plastic trim on lift gate.
The three wires you need to locate are: (i copy from someone post)

• Instruction and connection for dimmer self explanatory ones you read instruction and see picture:
• The brown/yellow stripe wire powering the 3rd brake light (connect 2 high power red wires)
• The gray/brown stripe, right tail light
• Purple/gray stripe, left tail light (it look to me purple/wight stripe), the are 2 the same color at big connector, choose the one opposite site from gray/brown wire.
• Run small wire to ground nut, 1.5-2 feet.
• Adjust tail light brightness (i dim to max).
• Each tail light draw 350mA so total 750mA

I you you know haw to solder wires its 1-hour job.
I wish i can post more picture, but they allow 10 only.
I am happy with this set up, but you do at yours own risk.
I dont encourage anybody to make changes this is illustration purpose only.
Sorry for not professional post, doing first time.
View attachment 48985
View attachment 48984
View attachment 48983
View attachment 48982
View attachment 48981
View attachment 48980
View attachment 48979
View attachment 48978
View attachment 48977
View attachment 48976

I did the Diode Dynamics mod but the Pots (dimmers) both failed within one week! They are only rated at 2 amps and are over rated at that. I had to pull them out and install a set of diodes and buck converters (DC to DC step downconverters, 12v to 6v, 12v to 9v would not dim tail lights). The Diode Dynamics PWM's are made in China (sticker says "assembled in the US", only their sticker is made in the US). Diode Dynamics said they do fail in Chevy Bolts, since it is under the 2 amp rating I assume they fail in many applications not just the Bolt/Bolt EUV. I tied the third brake light into the hatch tail lights using a set of diodes so the tail lights and brake lights would not feed voltage back into each other. I am an electronics tech so not everyone will be comfortable doing this. 12v to 6v Converter DC Step Down Buck Voltage Regulator DC Transformer Power Supply 3A 18W Waterproof Car Converter Compatible with Led Light Car Truck Boat.

• Find the brown/yellow stripe wire powering the third brake light, tap into wire (don't cut it), solder in a diode positive side toward brown/yellow wire, negative side solder to both the (cut tail light sides not the feed sides) gray/brown and the purple/brown wires hatch tail lights.
• Next solder a ground wire from the ground bolt a couple of feet away on the passengers side to the black wires of the two buck converters next to the red wires, cut off the black ground wires next to the yellow wires (not used).
• Next solder the red wire of one of the buck converters to the live (hot feed) 12v side of the purple/gray stripe wire, left tail light, there are two that are the same color at the big connector, choose the one on the opposite side of gray/brown wire.
• Next solder a diode positive side towards yellow wire of the same buck converter, solder negative side of the diode towards the tail light side of the cut purple/gray wire.
• Next solder the red wire of the other buck converter to the live (hot feed) 12v side of the gray/brown wire right tail light
• Next solder a diode positive side towards yellow wire of the same buck converter, solder negative side of the diode towards the tail light side of the cut gray/brown wire.
• Done, I am in central WI if you need help and your local.

 

[SDW]

Hello to everyone, This is my third post on this modification. My Diode dynamics units stopped working after 2 days , First it was the driver side , then 1 day later the pass side. I have tried to readjust them to no avail. It send thru full brightness in either running lights or brake - turn lights. As I stated in a earlier post since I was putting in a trailer harness I would hook up for turn signals as well. So I used 2 units. At the moment I have just disconnected the white connector ( I used crimped Female connectors to match the PWM module ) so this is easy. I think I am going to be satisfied with adding day and night turn and stop lighting to the hatch and relying on the side marker lights for night time running lights. Hopefully a reliable solution will be found and I will add the running light feature back in . I will be contacting Diode Dynamics to see how they want to handle reimbursement replacement if they have solve the issue. Rich In Buffalo.

Rich,
Mine lasted about six days before both units failed. I contacted Cameron at Diode dynamics and he blamed it on the Bolts and claimed they have power surges or something (they do not). They offered a replacement as well or a refund. They ghosted me after asking for a refund for a few days. I got a refund through PayPal but it was a hassle. Why would I install them again with a 100% failure rate? I recognized the components and boards as cheap Chinese (claimed they are "assembled in the US") and they are over rated. I installed Diodes and 12 to 6 volt buck converters in their place.

 

[SDW]

I guess I spoke too soon. It's been about 6 days and the dimmer function is no longer working. I think I'm done spending any more time on it.

See my other posts on replacing the Diode Dynamics units which all fail to regular buck converters and diodes.

 

[Imola.ZHP]

This is what I have for the tail lights.

Lmattiso, do you have the PIN diagram for the large connector on the hatch? Not related to this project but I’m looking for power and ground to hook up a rear-facing dashcam. I could run the wiring to the front like I did in our old Leaf but surely there is keyed 12v right there waiting to be tapped.

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

Hey Imola,
go back and take a look at post # 186 & 210 from Lmattiso.

He posted up some of the OEM diagrams for the rear lamps/hatch

The big, main connector on the rear hatch is X901. Ground is easy. A dedicated power back there I'm pretty sure does not exist.

If you really want to know what everything back there is, subscribe to ACDelco TDS. Its $22 for 3 days. OEM information. Its the same service information the dealer uses.

ACDelco TDS

You might find what you are looking for in that information.

 

[Cruzincat50]

Lmattiso, do you have the PIN diagram for the large connector on the hatch? Not related to this project but I’m looking for power and ground to hook up a rear-facing dashcam. I could run the wiring to the front like I did in our old Leaf but surely there is keyed 12v right there waiting to be tapped.

You might be able to tap off of the taillight control signal, but first find out what size fuse is on that circuit and compare it to the current rating of the dash cam. You can always use a multimeter to check the current draw of the taillights at the fuse box first. If the taillight current plus the spec for the dash cam current is more than half the fuse rating, I wouldn't do it. All the same, you would have to run with the taillights on to use the dash cam.
If you don't know how to check the current, don't try it. You could cause damage.

 

[SDW]

Lmattiso, do you have the PIN diagram for the large connector on the hatch? Not related to this project but I’m looking for power and ground to hook up a rear-facing dashcam. I could run the wiring to the front like I did in our old Leaf but surely there is keyed 12v right there waiting to be tapped.

If you decide to run it to the front fuse panel for an inside constant 12v source here is how I did it for the parking monitor feature on my 3 camera rear view mirror camera system. This is for the EUV. I soldered it to the load side of a Mini fuse in this exact location. Note it is not a Micro fuse like most the others are.

 

[Imola.ZHP]

Hey Imola,
go back and take a look at post # 186 & 210 from Lmattiso.

He posted up some of the OEM diagrams for the rear lamps/hatch

The big, main connector on the rear hatch is X901. Ground is easy. A dedicated power back there I'm pretty sure does not exist.

If you really want to know what everything back there is, subscribe to ACDelco TDS. Its $22 for 3 days. OEM information. Its the same service information the dealer uses.

ACDelco TDS

You might find what you are looking for in that information.

You might be able to tap off of the taillight control signal, but first find out what size fuse is on that circuit and compare it to the current rating of the dash cam. You can always use a multimeter to check the current draw of the taillights at the fuse box first. If the taillight current plus the spec for the dash cam current is more than half the fuse rating, I wouldn't do it. All the same, you would have to run with the taillights on to use the dash cam.
If you don't know how to check the current, don't try it. You could cause damage.

If you decide to run it to the front fuse panel for an inside constant 12v source here is how I did it for the parking monitor feature on my 3 camera rear view mirror camera system. This is for the EUV. I soldered it to the load side of a Mini fuse in this exact location. Note it is not a Micro fuse like most the others are.

Thanks for the replies everyone, I think perhaps it's best if I just carefully work the long cord to the front of the vehicle like I did with our old Leaf.

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

Probably an easy way to do it is- Running a wire front to back-

On the rocker panels, pop the plastic sill plates/covers off and follow the original GM wiring that's already under there.

Those plastic covers pop right off. Sometimes, a plastic trim tool or even a spatula helps pop them off.

 

[Blue Flea]

Alright so I finally got

Alright so I got to this yesterday. This device has a positive and a negative output, unlike the other which only has a positive output. I tried using a common ground to the body on the input side but I had the same issue as using the other dimmer devices. I used an individual ground from the tailight tied into a single one of these devices and then used the single ground out of the device to both the grounds for the tailights. Only then did it work for me. Otherwise no dimming was observed when connected to the common ground. I guess I'll keep an eye on it and see if it keeps working.

Hi everyone,

I just got my bolt EV last week and am really enjoying it, except for the brake lights. I'm nervous allowing my wife to drive it to work on the highways with factory set up.

I have the oznium product. I want to run both taillights and modified brake lights from the one unit.

Unfortunately I'm not getting it to dim. The product works, as I set it up with a single 12v led on my bench with a portable 12v power source and dimming worked as expected.

I'm getting really frustrated with myself because I'm not understanding how to do this.

Here is what I've done.

(I'm leaving out the the stop lamp override for now as I first need to understand how to get this to dim)

A)Tapped into (12v power and ground) down near the taillights just BEFORE the disconnect clip.
B) routed this tapped power into the corresponding pos and neg on the pwm
C) disconnected the disconnect plug to taillight(taillight now is disconnected from power)


D) now I use the output from the pwm and connect wire to both the pos and neg out from the pwm and tap into the wires for the taillights AFTER the disconnect.

Not sure what I'm doing wrong ...I'm feeling down on myself for not being able to do this. If anyone can follow what I did there and see where I went wrong please talk to me like the idiot I am And set me straight.

Thanks kindly in advance

 

[GB74]

Thanks for the replies everyone, I think perhaps it's best if I just carefully work the long cord to the front of the vehicle like I did with our old Leaf.

There might be unswitched +12 on X901 Pin 19. Gray / Violet wire.
I haven't had a chance to check it for myself yet.
Under Hood Fuse F41 20A --> x901 Pin 19 GY/VT --> Windshield Wiper Motor Park Switch Fused Signal.

The power distribution diagram shows the Rear Wiper Motor +12 via the relay switched B+ and accessory +12 both feed from F41 fuse.

Per the manual:
The rear window wiper motor has an internal park position switch that is actuated by a cam on the wiper shaft.
The switch toggles the power supply between accessory and B+ (supplied via a relay).
The accessory supply is used to bring the motor back to the park position when the relay is turned off.

 

[pretbek]

Is there a source of 12V (on when the car is on) available near the trunk lid?

I am thinking of installing Hyper-lites (additional brake lights) and mount them in the bottom corners of the rear window. The problem is that its control module needs a source of 12V which is always on.

I would really like to avoid running a +12V wire all the way from the trunk lid to the fuse box under the hood.